Crank, Delayed Start

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44Steel

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Habbibie,
I already did that. They first told me it was the crank sensor. Then they ran another diagnostic and told me it was the PCM. When I asked for a printout of the scan, they told me that could not print it out and would not tell me anything about the readings. Cost me $105. They wanted to charge me $592 for a new PCM when I know they are obsolete for this vehicle. Cost $134 with lifetime warranty. They also wanted to charge me 2.9 hours labor for a total of $900 when it should only be 0.5 hours labor and less than $300 for the part even with a mark up. When a mechanic cannot tell you anything about the readings or show you why the part needs to be replaced, that is not someone who is trustworthy.
 

docraymund

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Try replacing that. You search at ebay or at the junkyard for 2nd hand ones. Also if you keep dropping your keys, that may also be the problem. The transistors inside the key may have been affected.
 
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44Steel

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Cranked and started, stalled, no start now

I still cannot figure it out. I checked everything. Took off negative battery cable and used jumper wire between positive post and negative cable to clear memory as suggested by someone else. Expedition started. Had to go to parts store and left it running. Came back and it had stalled while I was gone. Now shows a code P0320. Cannot figure what the issue is. I have new crank and cam sensor, new coil over plugs, correct gaped spark plugs, voltage on battery is 12.34 and drops to 9 at initial start up and goes up to 10.1 while cranking. It would seem as if the PCM is not the problem or am I wrong. Could it be the alternator? Or what?

PLEASE HELP!!!!
 

tcwaltz

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As ridiculous as this may sound, have you checked the ground cable to the starter and the cleaned up the ground to chassis. I had a 79 Ford pinto that would do the same thing and more recently I have a 2001 Trans Am WS-6. Both issues normally manifested themselves after it rained and remained but the TA wouldn't do a thing. Lights would come on, everything in the car worked. Voltages were good, chip key was good etc. Occasionally if I left the key in the on position, then held to start it might turn over. I was convinced it was the starter, but replaced the battery anyway. Let the car sit about 3 months then decided to pull the starter and noticed the ground wasn't real tight. Removed, cleaned and reconnected the ground and the damn thing started right up.
 

Wilson

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Could also be the fuel pressure regulator sits on top of the engine, snap ring to replace it. This solves many long crank issues with the 5.4. Also make sure that the vacuum line on top of the
regulator is attached properly on both ends, as this controls the position of the fuel pressure regulator. Simple and cheap fix.
 

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