How do I manage timing w/ head removal

I am doing a head gasket job and this whole timing thing feels like it should be simple, but I am so so confused. As I understand it this is what needs to happen:
1. Put engine at TDC
2. Lock cams in place
3. Remove chains
4. Remove heads

Now my big questions is about the cam locking tools.
Do I leave them on once I have the heads off? I mean i'm taking them to be machined and rebuilt so I feel like they need to come off. And if they come off and the cam spins, then what was the point of having them to begin with?

I feel like as long as I can match the colored links on the chain up with the markings on each cam and the crank, than I don't really need the cam locking tools. Am I right on this?

You only need the locking tools when you're installing the timing chains. They are to keep the spring pressure from moving the cams.
During the tear down just look to make sure that the timing marks are clearly visible and all line up, and then you can rip it apart.

When I had my motor apart and got ready to put it back together I did it a little different.

The crank has a keyway slot on it... I made sure that the keyway was set at 12 o'clock and left it at 12 o'clock during the entire process making sure not to move it. Doing this allows for movement of the cams with possibility of any of the valves hitting the pistons if you were to have to or accidentally move the cams.

After that as you probably know its just as simple as lining up the cam gear marks and crank gear marks with the marked links on the chains.

Now on the marked links on the new chains. The chains should have two marked links in a row and then at the other end just a single marked link. I have heard to line up the two links on the cam gear so that the mark is between them and I have also heard to do the same on the crank gear. I did mine on the cam gear. The key here is to ensure you have equal lengths (number of links) on each side and that the marked links line up with the marks on the gears.

I did it this way with no special tools... I had the Drivers side done easy, the cam was already in the correct spot. The passenger side I found a tool that would fit the somewhat square recess in the front of the cam so I could turn it and hold it to line it up with my chain marks. I then just set all my guides and tensioners and got it all buttoned back up... I have 3K miles on it now.


I realize this is an old thread but hey its good info and thought I could add to it some.