HOw do I replace the ABS Control module?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

fuzzface

Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2015
Posts
5
Reaction score
0
Location
Cincinnati
I have a brake line that leaked and "drowned" the ABS control module under the distribution block. How do I replace it?
 
OP
OP
F

fuzzface

Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2015
Posts
5
Reaction score
0
Location
Cincinnati
My Expedition is a 2004 Eddie Bauer with the V-8 engine. Ir does have "Advance Track". Right now my ABS light is on as well as the Brake light. The Advance track button on the center console says is flashing "off".

Brakes are working, but may be a little soft. Brake fuild level is fine. I thightened the fiittings so the leak has stopped. To be sure I put talcum powder on top so even the slightest leak can be easily seen.

I was wondering if I can back out the mounting bolts, disconnect the wiring harness to remove the unit and then see if I can clean the unit with electonic cleaner. Then reinstall.

Will the brakes function with the ABS unit out? Are there any "internal connections to the distribution block?
 

GAINMOB

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
May 19, 2010
Posts
14,561
Reaction score
888
Location
Hampton, VA
mine did that too last year...have to cut the lines and use new ones
 
OP
OP
F

fuzzface

Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2015
Posts
5
Reaction score
0
Location
Cincinnati
I still have not been able to "seal" the leaking fitting on the distribution block. I'm afraid if I tighten them any further I'll strip the fitting. Can the fitting be sealed with teflon tape? Is there any other type of sealant that could be used on a brake line fitting?
 

blueberry

New Member
Joined
Apr 13, 2015
Posts
1
Reaction score
0
Location
Augusta GA
Need new line from maser cylinder to ABS.

Hello,
My 97 expy has a cracked line from the ABS to the master cylinder. In this section of the line there is a braided portion. I was wondering if I could just install a new line with out the braided portion. Is the flexible braided line necessary or could I use a solid NiCopp line?
This is my first time posting. Please help me get this post where it belongs.
 
OP
OP
F

fuzzface

Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2015
Posts
5
Reaction score
0
Location
Cincinnati
Almost finished

Soon I will hopefully finish this job.
1. First you have to remove the air intake system form the air filter back to the fender.
2. To disconnect the wire harness from the ABS module, Lift the locking tab at the bottom and pull up the harness cover. It acts like a lever and will release the connector from the ABS module.
3. Cover the wire connections with plastic or aluminum foil wrap to keep it clean unitl you get a replacement ABS module.
4. There are 3 Torx head bolts that hold the ABS module to the brake distribution block. These will require use of a Torx E-5 socket (I had to order one as it was not available locally). The 2 on the top are easy to see and easy to remove.

The bottom bolt however, gets exposed to the elements and may have significant corrosion on the Torx head, the bolt and the aluminum distribution block. Because of this the bolt head was rusted too bad to use the Torx E-5 socket. I had to grind it off using my Dremmel tool. If you do this you likely will have to replace the ABS module and not have it rebuilt as you likely will grind through some of the plastic cover since you cannot se the Torx bolt head.
5. Once you have the ABS module off you can see the ABS parts code. Mine was 4L1T-2C219-EC. However there are newer parts numbers that cross reference to the old ABS module and I wound up with 4L1T-2B373-EB. I ordered the ABS module using <partshotlines.com> which gave me many choices of used ABS modules available across the country. I was lucky enough to find an NOS ABS module from ‘Highway 64 Truck and Auto ‘ in New Mexico but it was the newer parts number which Highway 64 provided to me a “proof list” from “Hollander Interchange Notes” listing of the cross reference for me to be certain it was the correct replacement ABS. There were 4 other ABS modules this newer ABS module replaced. There seems to be hundreds of numbers for ABS modules so getting the right one is critical!
6. I am awaiting the delivery of the new ABS module and I will update this posting once I have it installed and road tested. This has been a real “journey of discovery”. I hope my experience helps others, since the list on the module is $871. All this cost me in parts about $200 including the new Torx socket set I had to order from Sears to get an E5 Torx socket. It is a good thing you can still safely drive the car, with normal braking, but without the ABS module installed.
 
OP
OP
F

fuzzface

Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2015
Posts
5
Reaction score
0
Location
Cincinnati
Well I finally have sucesfuly finished replacing my ABS module on my 2004 Eddies Bauer Expedition . The last and final step was to go to my local Ford dealer to have them "calibrate" the replacement ABS module. I was told by the service manger to bring in my old ABS module as the "technician" may need to download codes from the old ABS module to "calibrate" the replacement ABS module. I do not know if this was necessary or not but Ford charged me $98 to do the "calibration". No everything appears to be working correctly with no ABS warning lights or traction control warnings. FINALLY!!! I sure was happy that I could drive the car without a functioning ABS module while I worked to replace it!

I estimate that all my costs to do this was about $325 - not bad since I was told the dealer cost for a new ABS module was $871 and a rebuilt ABS module itself costs about $300 online. For me this was a 3 month journey. I learned a lot, saved considerable money, and I feel accomplished.

I sure hope Ford no longer uses steel brakes lines that fail after about 10 years use on salt treated roads. I know newer coated and alloy brake lines last much longer! I also plan to use the "under-body spray" at the car wash on a more reguler basis.
 

johnboneske

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 30, 2010
Posts
759
Reaction score
169
Location
Ohio
I replaced the whole unit on my old 97 and didn't have to have any programmed. It wasn't a bad job except having to get the bleeder loose on the calipers. I think I paid $65 for a used one and worked perfect!
 

GNUT

Member
Joined
Jan 22, 2013
Posts
18
Reaction score
2
Location
South Alabama
Well I finally have sucesfuly finished replacing my ABS module on my 2004 Eddies Bauer Expedition . The last and final step was to go to my local Ford dealer to have them "calibrate" the replacement ABS module. I was told by the service manger to bring in my old ABS module as the "technician" may need to download codes from the old ABS module to "calibrate" the replacement ABS module. I do not know if this was necessary or not but Ford charged me $98 to do the "calibration". No everything appears to be working correctly with no ABS warning lights or traction control warnings. FINALLY!!! I sure was happy that I could drive the car without a functioning ABS module while I worked to replace it!

I estimate that all my costs to do this was about $325 - not bad since I was told the dealer cost for a new ABS module was $871 and a rebuilt ABS module itself costs about $300 online. For me this was a 3 month journey. I learned a lot, saved considerable money, and I feel accomplished.

I sure hope Ford no longer uses steel brakes lines that fail after about 10 years use on salt treated roads. I know newer coated and alloy brake lines last much longer! I also plan to use the "under-body spray" at the car wash on a more reguler basis.
Thanks for all this info. I'm having a similar issue right now with my ABS light, traction control light, and Brake indicator all coming on at once and staying on, though the Expedition drives normally.
 
Top