Fun with brakes

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AWD EXPY

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It can only be the line that crosses over to the right rear, at this point. After that line comes out of the tee, it kind of goes forward a bit before it crosses over.
 

stamp11127

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Don't assume - verify - verify - verify is our moto

FYI: the 2nd and 3rd gens have the individual brake lines running to each caliper - sorry for the confusion.
 
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AWD EXPY

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Got a new line in back. It took hours getting the old lines unscrewed. Ugh! The new line aint pretty, but it's supported and working.

My logic on bleeding the back calipers is, do the driver side first, so no air can creep up into the other lines.
 

Bedrck47

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copied from the 2000 service manual

NOTE: When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for repair or new installation, air may get into the system and cause spongy brake pedal action. This requires bleeding of the hydraulic system after it has been correctly connected. The hydraulic system can be bled manually or with pressure bleeding equipment.

NOTE: This procedure must be performed if the 4 wheel anti-lock brake (4WABS) hydraulic control unit (HCU) has been installed new.

NOTE: One conventional pressure bleed cycle consists of advancing the brake pedal to its depressed position, opening the disc brake caliper bleeder screw, allowing fluid to be released into the waste container, closing the disc brake caliper bleeder screw and releasing the brake pedal.

NOTE: Performing the NGS program routine drives entrapped air from the otherwise inaccessible lower section of the 4WABS valve into the upper sections (accessible by bleeding the brakes). Subsequent bleedings remove the air from the system.

NOTE: Add recommended brake fluid as necessary throughout the procedure.

Connect a clear waste line to the RH rear disc brake caliper bleeder screw and the other end in a container partially filled with recommended brake fluid.

Have an assistant pump the brake pedal and then hold firm pressure on the brake pedal.
Loosen the RH rear disc brake caliper bleeder screw until a stream of brake fluid comes out. Have an assistant maintain pressure on the brake pedal while tightening the RH rear disc brake caliper bleeder screw.
Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.
Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir as necessary.
Tighten the RH rear disc brake caliper bleeder screw.

Repeat Steps 1, 2, 3, and 4 for the LH rear disc brake caliper bleeder screw, RH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw, and the LH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw.

NOTE: Go to the help menu in the scan tool.

Connect the scan tool DCL cable adapter into the vehicle data link connector (DLC) under the dash and follow the scan tool instructions.

Repeat the conventional bleed procedure as outlined in Steps 1 through 5.
If the brake pedal feels spongy, repeat the scan tool service bleed procedure.
 

hades02

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So from another site I was able to get some part numbers to build the rear left to right line. I picked these up at Advanced Auto. Please note that PA (used to be PAX) in the part numbers is the American (standard size) . PAE is the European (metric)

1 pc PA-360 (60 inch brake tube)
1 pc PA-312 (12 inch brake tube)
1 pc BLU-3C (3/16 - 3/8 union)

The explanation for the union is that the brake tubes come with a long threaded connector on one side and a short one on the other. The connector to the caliper is a long one. Use the union to connect the short connectors together to make a 72 brake tube with long connectors at both sides. I will be tackling this project this weekend and will post more information.
 

hades02

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So I got the old line out in about 15 minutes. Now time to bend the new lines and install.

20140920_142654.jpg

20140920_143011.jpg
 

hades02

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Finally got around to installing the new line. 20 minutes worth of work. I used the old clips to sort of secure the new line to the cross beam.

I used the 60 inch line on the drivers side caliper. Just carefully fed the line over the gas tank and gas tank hoses/wiring. Threaded the fitting onto the T-fitting. Attached the coupler to the other end, then attached the 12 inch line to the coupler. I started off with a slightly bent 12 inch line and then adjusted as needed to attach the 12 inch line to the connection for the rubber hose going to the caliper.

As a side note, the bleeder screw was seized on the passenger side caliper. Had to remove the caliper and use some heat to remove. replaced with a Help bleeder screw from Autozone. ($2.17 for two). This part took about 15 minutes not included in the 20 minutes above. Some teflon on the threads of the new screw, use of a mightyvac and had the system bled in less than 5 minutes.

Hope this helps others.
 
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