frenchqtrchef
Member
How much can I expect to pay a shop to replace my A/C compressor? The trusty mechanic we have used for years is giving me an estimate of around $1000. Just want to be sure that's on par. I have a 2004 Eddie Bauer 8 cyl 5.4L.
A/C repair?
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mpsjr
Well-Known Member
That depends on what he is planning to put into your truck. A new Motorcraft "loaded" compressor will run you around $750 retail, after dealer markup, but includes the clutch, coil, pulley and is pre-oiled. Just the compressor should be somewhere around $660, though, I'm not sure about aftermarket stuff. If you want OEM, you might try calling somewhere like Bumper-to-Bumper instead of buying direct from Ford, as they sell Motorcraft without the markup (in fact, in Louisiana, when Ford "orders" parts that are not in stock, they typically come from a local Bumper-to-Bumper warehouse). Your mechanic may charge a markup if he buys it, so I would talk to him to see what your options are. Also, you may get a better warranty allowing him to buy the parts (some mechanics cover labor costs as well as replacement if they buy/install everything).
Keep in mind that the mechanic will have to vacuum out all of your freon before swapping the compressor, then recharge your system afterwards. He will likely charge for what he puts in as well, without giving you a credit for what he pulls out of it (I know that sucks, but it's the standard practice. They can't just reuse what's evacuated from a system.) Everything else will depend on labor and misc. charges. Hopefully someone with more recent experience can offer some additional guidance on price, but you may want to ask your mechanic what parts he intends to use. Good luck.
Keep in mind that the mechanic will have to vacuum out all of your freon before swapping the compressor, then recharge your system afterwards. He will likely charge for what he puts in as well, without giving you a credit for what he pulls out of it (I know that sucks, but it's the standard practice. They can't just reuse what's evacuated from a system.) Everything else will depend on labor and misc. charges. Hopefully someone with more recent experience can offer some additional guidance on price, but you may want to ask your mechanic what parts he intends to use. Good luck.
stamp11127
Full Access Members
Motorcraft new compressor w/clutch $336.39
Receiver/Drier $64.79
R134a $6+/lb in bulk @ 2.5-3 lbs
Total w/o shipping or tax around $419.18, so figure $450 in parts.
His price isn't bad considering what he has to do to fix it correctly.
But here is the kicker, Ford at one time had what is called "Black Death". That is when the compressor trashes the rings/seals around the pistons, it then plugs up the small capillaries in the condenser, evaporator and orifice tube. Many shops will "clean" the system with a flush but can't fully get all of the trash out. Over time the trash frees up and plugs the orifice tube and or receiver/drier, portions of the evap and condenser.
When black death occurs it is better to replace the parts mentioned above instead of following the trash with repeated cleanings.
I would ask him if that has occurred.
How much patience and tools do you have? A/C is very simple if you have the correct tools and follow the rules of the game.
Auto a/c refrigerant - R134a, is now recoverable with various recycling systems and is reused once it has passed the purity tests.
Receiver/Drier $64.79
R134a $6+/lb in bulk @ 2.5-3 lbs
Total w/o shipping or tax around $419.18, so figure $450 in parts.
His price isn't bad considering what he has to do to fix it correctly.
But here is the kicker, Ford at one time had what is called "Black Death". That is when the compressor trashes the rings/seals around the pistons, it then plugs up the small capillaries in the condenser, evaporator and orifice tube. Many shops will "clean" the system with a flush but can't fully get all of the trash out. Over time the trash frees up and plugs the orifice tube and or receiver/drier, portions of the evap and condenser.
When black death occurs it is better to replace the parts mentioned above instead of following the trash with repeated cleanings.
I would ask him if that has occurred.
How much patience and tools do you have? A/C is very simple if you have the correct tools and follow the rules of the game.
Auto a/c refrigerant - R134a, is now recoverable with various recycling systems and is reused once it has passed the purity tests.
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Ethanparker
New Member
Its depend on your area where you live. You can try AC Repair Pembroke Pines FL for your AC repair work.I used their service one month ago. they provide you a reasonable ac repair service at affordable price.
randy ortan
New Member
I agree with you dude....
buildingdoc
Full Access Members
couple of things regarding AC systems that I have to add to stamp11127's post. He is pretty correct regarding the "Black Death" issue. It was not just isolated to Ford. GM R-4 compressors really led the way. But the worst part is when the industry standard (and higher heat exchange efficiency) condenser was introduced. Its what they call a parallel flow and the openings are really tiny. These can NOT be flushed or cleaned completely. I have cut some open after black death casualties and they are typically 40-60% clogged. R134 systems are way too sensitive in traffic situations with a perfect condenser let alone a partially clogged scenario. The condensers function is to transfer heat from the refrigerant and it has to be optimal.
Also. If I am correct, you have an expansion valve and not an orifice tube. This regulates refrigerant from the high side into the evaporator to absorb heat from the cabin air. it is a pretty small opening and perfect for catching debris. I highly recommend replacing this after an internal compressor component failure. Also a receiver drier is always recommended if the system is opened as it contains dessicant that absorbs ambient moisture to keep the system "dry".
Ultimately if you mechanic is getting you a new comp/clutch, drier, expansion valve... and at least flushing the condenser for $1000.. not a bad deal. But ultimately I would like to know more about the diagnosis on the compressor. If he tells you the valves are shot and you have "even pressures", compressor and drier should only be required.
PS most compressor installations require a drier (sometimes a TXV) to be changed as well for warranty to be honored. Refrigerant is also considered a fluid on the vehicle, but due to the way it is put in and taken out of the system, if they recover your refrigerant it still belongs to you. they can charge you to remove it and put it back in but book rate is usually 1 hour. that also includes pulling a vacuum on the system. so if you can have them recover for you, hold the refrigerant (get a receipt on how much they pull out) you can safely open the system complete your repairs... then just have them pull the vacuum and recharge to correct weight.
Sorry for the long post. Just trying to make sure customers are informed and don't get ripped off. I did automotive AC repair and design(hot rods and custom application) for 10 years. hope this helps others in the future.
Matt
Also. If I am correct, you have an expansion valve and not an orifice tube. This regulates refrigerant from the high side into the evaporator to absorb heat from the cabin air. it is a pretty small opening and perfect for catching debris. I highly recommend replacing this after an internal compressor component failure. Also a receiver drier is always recommended if the system is opened as it contains dessicant that absorbs ambient moisture to keep the system "dry".
Ultimately if you mechanic is getting you a new comp/clutch, drier, expansion valve... and at least flushing the condenser for $1000.. not a bad deal. But ultimately I would like to know more about the diagnosis on the compressor. If he tells you the valves are shot and you have "even pressures", compressor and drier should only be required.
PS most compressor installations require a drier (sometimes a TXV) to be changed as well for warranty to be honored. Refrigerant is also considered a fluid on the vehicle, but due to the way it is put in and taken out of the system, if they recover your refrigerant it still belongs to you. they can charge you to remove it and put it back in but book rate is usually 1 hour. that also includes pulling a vacuum on the system. so if you can have them recover for you, hold the refrigerant (get a receipt on how much they pull out) you can safely open the system complete your repairs... then just have them pull the vacuum and recharge to correct weight.
Sorry for the long post. Just trying to make sure customers are informed and don't get ripped off. I did automotive AC repair and design(hot rods and custom application) for 10 years. hope this helps others in the future.
Matt
myacand heat
New Member
In AC unit the compressor handles more stress than any other component in your whole air conditioning unit. If you are replacing the AC compressor yourself, be sure to wear some sort of eye protection.If not then call the professional AC repair man to do that.
Jarome Iginla
New Member
air contitioning system
My Air Conditioner is not cold enough and leaking water. The fans runs but there is no cold air. I don't say air is not cool...it is cool... but doesn't seem cold enough. Should i need to replace it or it needs a little repairing??...
My Air Conditioner is not cold enough and leaking water. The fans runs but there is no cold air. I don't say air is not cool...it is cool... but doesn't seem cold enough. Should i need to replace it or it needs a little repairing??...
