HIGH torque build?

Pappy · Aug 28, 2015

I'm thinking about building a 5.4 triton to go into my 02 Dish. I tow a travel trailer some. I'd start with some "Twisted Wedge" 2 valve heads, and a 4.6 Mustang twin turbo kit (since I can't find a 5.4 TWIN turbo kit)[EDIT: NOW I see several 5.4 twin turbo kits???]. I'm more interested in low end torque than hi rev horses, since I never wind it past 4 grand and seldom pass 3500. Who knows what piston/intake/cam/exhaust combination would give me the most legal "daily driver" reliable torque and secondly economy?

I'm thinking I can build a motor for a lot less than the cost of a new vehicle.

ExplorerTom · Aug 28, 2015

Don't fear the gear.

When my Explorer was my tow vehicle for a popup camper, I regeared from 3.55 to 4.56. In hindsight for that particular need, that much gear was probably too big of a jump. It would leap across an intersection and tow that trailer up a tree but 70 mph was about as fast as I would go on the highway due to a certain resonance that just seemed like I shouldn't push past. Now with the larger tires I really like having that extra gearing.

Goats · Aug 29, 2015

I would do a lighting swap. It's easyer and its bolt in.

Lostneye · Aug 29, 2015

Without more specific power goals I'm making assumptions but here goes....

My suggestion choose a kit with smaller turbos/lower advertised power to spool up quickly to give you a flatter torque curve. It will die off at high RPM but that sounds like a non issue for you. Call the cam companies tech departments directly and they will help you pick a cam profile to fit your application. Bigger isn't always better when it comes to cams.

I agree with Explorertom don't fear the gear. If you have/plan on larger tires factor that in on your gear selection along with driving habits. There are a number of online calculators to figure out how tire size and gear changes will effect RPM. Too much gear will hurt highway miles but may actually improve around town/towing mileage and make stoplight traffic noticeably easier. Just be careful of over-revving the driveline. Bad harmonics/vibrations at speed can be a warning the driveshaft cant keep up and can and will eventually let go.

Pappy · Aug 29, 2015

The goal is to have a dead solid reliable daily driver that makes gobbbbbbbssses of torque.

A slower rear end means more engine and drive train revs and I'd like to avoid that. I'd look hard at tranny gearing before a rear end change, due to drive shaft speeds. There are highways here in Texas where the LEGAL speed is 85 mph, and 90 or 95 is "get byable" often. I see 75 mph almost daily (Gotta luv the North Texas Turnpike Authority). It is true that loosing power above 4000 rpm is not a problem because I'll never get there. I'm thinking 500 ft/lbs is a realistic number and I'd not shy away from 750. I've read that there are people making that with no reliability trouble. I understand that connecting rods on out would have to be replaced with components capable of handling the load.

Fuel mileage? Well, this 02 Dish gets the best mileage of anything I've driven since 1990, so I'm not TOO worried about mpg, but I don't need be to pumping enough fuel to make 2000 rear wheel horses at 10,000 rpms.

stamp11127 · Aug 29, 2015

Go the diesel route if you want torque and lower rpms. Of course you will need deep pockets....

ExplorerTom · Aug 29, 2015

I'm not saying you should make the huge jump in gears that did, but going from 3.55 to 4.10 would make a big difference.

Regearing the transmission- is that even possible?

And the 5.4 isn't exactly some seldomly used motor that no one has ever built up. There's only been several million built.

But with that said, from what I've seen, this forum isn't the best for heavily modified stuff like that.

Pappy · Aug 29, 2015

I've thought about the diesel option, but if I go that route, the engine will be wrapped up in a brand spankin new F250. Very deep pockets involved there. I probably need to dig thru the F-150 and Mustang forums.

46L281GT · Aug 29, 2015

I have a supercharger on my 99 mustang. So far is has been very reliable. My advice if you flip forced induction is be sure you inter cool it. It will keep your IATs down and that will help quite a bit. Only disadvantage to FI is that you will need to run 93 octane or e85. Not sure if that's a deal breaker for you, but it's something to be aware of.

american steel · Sep 5, 2015

Pappy said:
I'm thinking about building a 5.4 triton to go into my 02 Dish. I tow a travel trailer some. I'd start with some "Twisted Wedge" 2 valve heads, and a 4.6 Mustang twin turbo kit (since I can't find a 5.4 TWIN turbo kit)[EDIT: NOW I see several 5.4 twin turbo kits???]. I'm more interested in low end torque than hi rev horses, since I never wind it past 4 grand and seldom pass 3500. Who knows what piston/intake/cam/exhaust combination would give me the most legal "daily driver" reliable torque and secondly economy?

I'm thinking I can build a motor for a lot less than the cost of a new vehicle.

wasting time and money on twisted wedge heads on this.

3.73 gears
TT? all you need is a single with 5psi
rebuild the 5.4l
keeps your cams they are good for 2600RPM you need your heads ported more so the exh, the intake ports need to be cleaned up a bigger throttle body also. ST headers. tune of course CAI.

HIGH torque build?

Pappy

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