IWE's

darmahsd · Jun 13, 2013

Just replaced both sides front hubs with new Timkens,
only to find I'm still getting some noise.
Found out it could be the IWE's, even though I didn't think
the teeth looked bad when I installed the new hubs.
When I test them and the solenoid for vacuum, if I find out they are bad,
is it possible that they could have prematurely damaged the new Timken hubs?
Can metal particles work their way into the sealed hubs?
I noticed that the small set of rollers at the very front behind
the grease cup/13MM nut are exposed.

Thanks

FordandPolaris · Jun 14, 2013

I am no good knowledge-wise with the newer system of engaging the hubs, but I will say you shouldn't have to worry about the hubs being damaged. I would be more concerned about the CV axles in case you have a ripped boot.

darmahsd · Jun 14, 2013

That's just it. There are no ripped CV boots and my experience with worn CV's
is that they make a clicking noise. I'm going to check the IWE's now, and rotate
the tires. I just hope it ain't rear bearing noise that sounds like it's coming from the front or worse, that the new Timkens are faulty. Gonna use my new stethoscope while the truck's in the air. Thanks for your input.

darmahsd · Jun 14, 2013

Well I checked the IWE's as per this very helpful You Tube:Ford IWE system - YouTube
Up to 30 i/p on the vacuum gauge and the wheels wouldn't disengage from the drivetrain. So I guess I've been running around the last 14K miles with all that stuff turning and wasting gas. With the vacuum line disconnected from the hub and the engine running, I don't feel or hear any vacuum in the line either. With all or four wheel drive engaged this should be how it is. So that may be another issue and I will have to check the solenoid or see if the vacuum line is disconnected once I find it.

mindgame · Jun 14, 2013

Just replace the solenoid.. approx. $30, and it is an easy fix

rocketvette95 · Jun 14, 2013

I don't know who is right. I know that on my 2005 BOTH of my front axles turn in 4wd or 2wd. So maybe mine is screwed up and I don't know it. This is what Alldata says

End (IWE) System

The integrated wheel end (IWE) system contains the following:

•Vacuum reservoir
•IWE solenoid
•IWEs (spring loaded vacuum hubs)
•Vacuum hoses
•Check valve

The IWE system uses vacuum hubs that engage the front wheel hubs to the front halfshafts or disengage the front wheel hubs from the front halfshafts.

The IWE solenoid receives engine vacuum from the vacuum reservoir.

When the 4-wheel drive system is in 2WD mode, the 4x4 module (PCM) supplies a ground path to the IWE solenoid to apply vacuum to the integrated wheel ends (disengaging the front hubs from the front halfshafts). In 4WD mode, the 4x4 module (PCM) does not supply the ground path to the IWE solenoid, vacuum is not applied to the integrated wheel ends and an internal spring keeps the front hubs engaged to the front halfshafts.

darmahsd · Jun 14, 2013

mindgame said:
Just replace the solenoid.. approx. $30, and it is an easy fix

Applying vacuum to the actuators independent of the truck's vacuum system and solenoid doesn't disengage the wheel from the driveline. Am I missing something or isn't that the basic test of the IWE's themselves? If just the solenoid, that would be great.

Also, I've been reading that once this problem is licked, I'll be seeing about a 3 MPG gain across the board. Makes sense in that a great deal of driveline drag will be eliminated. There are a lot of threads on this forum about how could we get better fuel mileage. I was unaware of the problem for 14K miles of driving until changing my hubs and getting the noise. Rocketvette95 sounds like he might not have been aware too. So there might be a bunch of us that can see a substantial mileage gain by checking these.

rocketvette95 · Jun 15, 2013

So I am very confused !! So is there anybody out there that can positively say that the front driveshafts DO NOT SPIN IN 2WD.
Also am I or is Alldata wrong???? Does the front IWE have to have vacuum to be engaged or disengaged

darmahsd · Jun 15, 2013

It's true that the front wheels should be free wheelin' without being connected to the halfshafts and front diff. Just like those manual hubs of old 4x4's, which these IWE's replace.
After the Alldata you posted explains the solenoid, it does say that when vacuum is applied in 2WD mode, the front wheels should freewheel independent of the drivetrain. Mine do not. And when I apply vacuum with my son's Blue Point pump, which is brand new and a decent unit, they still don't. So I may have to replace both actuators, the solenoid, some check valves, vacuum reservoir box and maybe even some hose. It was pointed out on the F150 forum that maybe even the vent hoses get clogged. So all that needs to be tested for me to get the system to work properly.

darmahsd · Jun 15, 2013

rocketvette95 said:
When the 4-wheel drive system is in 2WD mode, the 4x4 module (PCM) supplies a ground path to the IWE solenoid to apply vacuum to the integrated wheel ends (disengaging the front hubs from the front halfshafts). In 4WD mode, the 4x4 module (PCM) does not supply the ground path to the IWE solenoid, vacuum is not applied to the integrated wheel ends and an internal spring keeps the front hubs engaged to the front halfshafts.

That says it all right there. I don't think that is wrong, but rather an accurate explanation.

mindgame · Jun 17, 2013

Guys...

Regardless if you are in 4L, 4H, 4AWD, or 2WD.. The front drive shaft will ALWAYS spin (atleast with Gen2).

How the hub actuators come into play is if a vacuum is applied to the hub actuators, then the hub will DISENGAUGE, and the front wheel will spin freely. If there is no vacuum to the actuators, then the hub will be ENGAUGED. Thus if your IWE solenoid is defunct, and is unable to allow vacuum to the actuators, then your front hub will always be engauged..

Which is why I suggested to just change the IWE solenoid, it is a cheap and fast fix. If this does not fix it, then have fun vacuum tracing for a leak in your tubing..

And yes.. one again.. power to front drive shaft will always be on.. Unless you perform the brown wire mod...

Cheers,
:head3:

mindgame · Jun 17, 2013

darmahsd said:
when I apply vacuum with my son's Blue Point pump, which is brand new and a decent unit, they still don't. So I may have to replace both actuators, the solenoid, some check valves, vacuum reservoir box and maybe even some hose.

I would first remove the hub, and clean it... Apply vacuum to the large inlet to -25psi, if vacuum doesn't hold and retract the metal gear, then your hub is the problem. Have fun..

darmahsd · Jun 18, 2013

mindgame said:
Guys...

Regardless if you are in 4L, 4H, 4AWD, or 2WD.. The front drive shaft will ALWAYS spin (atleast with Gen2).

That's not making sense when you include 2WD in that statement. Then you say they won't with vacuum applied. I also had a 1rst gen and I'm pretty sure they didn't have this system, so that's where you can say everything is ALWAYS turning no matter what mode the
truck's in. Same with a Cherokee I once had.

As I posted, I used up to 30 on my vacuum pump and everything still spun, so I'm going back to double check, put all four wheels of the ground to switch to AWD and check all vacuum, before I start throwing any parts on it. But bottom line is in normal running the solenoid should only allow vacuum in 2WD. If the system worked in reverse and the vacuum held everything locked
in 4WD, you'd have more catastrophic failers when vacuum fails.

mindgame · Jun 19, 2013

darmahsd said:
mindgame said:

Guys...

Regardless if you are in 4L, 4H, 4AWD, or 2WD.. The front drive shaft will ALWAYS spin (atleast with Gen2).

That's not making sense when you include 2WD in that statement. Then you say they won't with vacuum applied. I also had a 1rst gen and I'm pretty sure they didn't have this system, so that's where you can say everything is ALWAYS turning no matter what mode the
truck's in. Same with a Cherokee I once had.

As I posted, I used up to 30 on my vacuum pump and everything still spun, so I'm going back to double check, put all four wheels of the ground to switch to AWD and check all vacuum, before I start throwing any parts on it. But bottom line is in normal running the solenoid should only allow vacuum in 2WD. If the system worked in reverse and the vacuum held everything locked
in 4WD, you'd have more catastrophic failers when vacuum fails.

Click to expand...

Again...

It's up to you.. You can take my comment with a grain of salt...

For Gen2.. The front shaft will "always" spin off from the transfer case regardless of 2WD, AWD, 4H, 4L..

Vacuum will be applied to hubs for 2WD, and AWD (not in 4x4), during this mode, the hubs will be "disengaged" from the front drive shaft. The front shaft will be spinning, but the wheels will floating freely.

Vacuum will NOT be applied during 4H, 4L, and AWD (4x4 mode). The hubs will be engaged with the front shaft, and the front wheels will spin along with the front drive shafts...

With Gen2.. 2WD is a misnomer... Common perception is.. If you're in 2WD, the front shaft should not be spinning..

The truth is for Gen2.. Front shaft is spinning in 2WD mode.. regardless of what mode you select..

If you want to disengage this behavior.. Google "brown wire mod", and you'll see the whole write up on this topic..

IWE's

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