Chrome cleaning- My Secret Method!!

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jeff kushner

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I cringe every time that I hear "the chrome has some surface rust but will come off with some fine steel wool". STOP right there! God nor any Chrome Plater ever meant for any type of metal to come into contact with their chrome! This would include the "alum foil and Coke" trick, sandpaper or any other method that tells you to touch chrome with any type of metal or abrasive be it foil, wool or brass or steel bristled brushes! No REAL restorer would either! Don’t be a hack, read and learn something useful.
I stumbled onto a method that simply put, performs miracles on rough chrome. It won’t magically remove pits nor fill them with shimmering chrome but you look at the before and after pictures and decide it’s it is a viable method. Another thing….even older parts that look good to the naked eye are covered with microscopic rust….take that fender of handlebar and run it though my system and you’ll be amazed at how much better it looks!
If you agree that this method could improve the looks of your head bolts, nuts, pipes, covers etc….send them to me along with a check and…..no, NO, I’m not charging for this although I surely could make money off of this. Instead of sending me your hard earned cash, go to your local Dollar Store and buy a few bottles of this:
The Works Tub & Shower cleaner
Be absolutely sure that you purchase the correct formula. They also sell a toilet bowl cleaner which will ruin your chrome forever….probably not what you’re after.
Get the correct stuff and fill a plastic bin full of it, enough to fully submerge the parts you are cleaning. Obviously for pipes, you need a big bin and plenty of The Works! For the pictures shown, which are from a 1973 CB350 Honda, I used approximately 40 bottles.
When you’re ready, set your pieces into the bin and begin emptying the bottles over them. Again, pour in enough to fully submerge the parts and then let them soak for 4 hours. Check them at 3 hours and you will be amazed! Wait the full 4 hours as suggested, then remove and rinse under cold water and wipe with a soft cotton cloth dry.
You will notice that the rust turns into yellow powder which settles at the bottom of the tank or bin. Try not to stir this up and it will inhibit the formula from working properly. Once there is a lot of the yellow in the solution, it will be time to get rid of it and start the next batch with new stuff.

Good luck and have fun....be careful, this stuff can eat flesh so wear gloves!

jeff
 

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GAINMOB

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RIGHT...which was the basis of this thread...good info but not feasible for us with rims...i would need GALLONS for my 26's
 
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jeff kushner

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You guys need to think a little outside the proverbial box.....I've done rims before (on my '99 Expy) by laying a cotton towel(it worked better then the blue shop rags)on the lower half of all four, keeping them soaked for the 3-4 hrs by pouring a little over at the top and letting it filter down, then turning them over after rolling forward to apply to the other half's....I just didn't have any pics to post so I used the bike parts....just to show the difference.

I prefer to spend the 40-50 bucks to do it right though for most jobs but it's up to you...it WILL corrode zinc finishes so, like anything else...use a little common sense and check any other metals before immersing!!


jeff
 

GAINMOB

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i use good ole fashion soap and water...if its real bad then i'll use meguiars HOT RIMS chome cleaner...no tarnishment and i've had rims for 4 yrs
 
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