Quick Brake Change Help Requested

[acolic]

Hi I could use a bit of help.

I was pretty proud of myself changing the front brake lines and decided to change the pads and rotors since I had everything apart.

The left side came out really easy but I am having extreme difficulty with the right side.

First one of the caliper pins is stripped and the torx bit is spinning. I can't see a way of getting the pin out the only thing I can think of doing is cutting the end of the pin off so that the calliper slides off the calliper holder and then try to take the rest the pin out.

The second bizarre issue is I can't get the rotor off. It's seems to have fused to the hub. I tried taking a sledgehammer to it and it will not move off the hub.

Has this ever happened to anyone else?

Any suggestions?

Appreciate the help.



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[acolic]

Hi

I got the rotor off. And I had to cut the caliper pin off. After that it was pretty easy to take the rest of the pin out. I then found out that the caliper was seized and I had to replace it anyways. I ten moved on to the rear brakes and was almost done when I found out that the rear caliper bleed screws are rusted and stripped. Oh well a job for tomorrow.


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[theoldwizard1]

Raybestos "loaded" rear calipers (includes pads and all hardware), part #RC10912 and #RC10911 are only $64 from RockAuto (not including shipping and after core return).




The fronts, part #RC10910 and #RC10909 are $75.

I highly recommend Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors ! They are mire expensive, but the don't warp like cheap rotors.

 

[98eb5.4]

vise grips worked well for me, chews up the head good tho, then dumped the the torx deal with hex head bolts

First one of the caliper pins is stripped and the torx bit is spinning. I can't see a way of getting the pin out the only thing I can think of doing is cutting the end of the pin off so that the calliper slides off the calliper holder and then try to take the rest the pin out.

<snip>

I got the rotor off. And I had to cut the caliper pin off. After that it was pretty easy to take the rest of the pin out. I then found out that the caliper was seized and I had to replace it anyways. I ten moved on to the rear brakes and was almost done when I found out that the rear caliper bleed screws are rusted and stripped. Oh well a job for tomorrow.


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[98eb5.4]

The second bizarre issue is I can't get the rotor off. It's seems to have fused to the hub. I tried taking a sledgehammer to it and it will not move off the hub.

they should come off easy but can get stuck big time if on for a long time,

lotsa folks try hammering from behind where you have access to the outer edges of the disk,

you can whack away there so hard that you can damage the disk & it still wont come off!!

the trick is whacking it from the front in the center area first which is way more effective at breaking the bond

also can't hurt to use penetrating oil in the disk center bore area first, then clean & lube that area to prevent future sticking,

doesn't take much corrosion in there to seize it up,

if original, you should also replace at least the main front to rear brake line, they are known to rust out around midpoint, where the way it is routed, you can't even really see it, till next thing you know u spring a leak & the pedal goes soft

 

[intelisevil]

also can't hurt to use penetrating oil in the disk center bore area first, then clean & lube that area to prevent future sticking,

If you don't use the correct "Lube" here it can flow (between the heat and centrifugal forces) onto the rotor braking surface.

I use a thin layer Kopr-Kote Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant on all of the surfaces where the rotor touches the hub. It doesn't melt or move around.