Ok to use this terminal for " 12V Ignition " source?

LOL. I hear what your saying about the heat, we in AZ know ALL about that, just not the humidity..

stamp11127 said:

I'll give more info later, been driving all day picking up another project car - I'm not 18 any more.....this Ga heat & humidity is zapping the snot out of me today.

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Any chance you could give an update? Thanks

on one of the ''repair'' i did on my expedition i needed a 12v switched source, this is what i used: https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/BK_7822226/

I'll update this probably later tonight.

I've been cleaning up by my recent "steal" to see if it is worth fixing or using as a donor car for parts. After a quick wash it turns out to be in better shape than the way it looked.

Change of plans...going to swap in a manual while searching for a diesel donor for the other "project".

To most people this doesn't matter, BUT....from a professional standpoint you want to have separate circuits for the various loads, keeping branch circuits to a minimum. In the event of a problem you lose only that circuit, not the additional add on branches. When possible you always try to source power from a hot lug then fuse accordingly.

Getting power from the trailer relay socket will work and feel free to do so, but in the future should you decide to enable the tow function and use the relay, you have a slight problem.

Here is what to avoid:
https://www.google.com/search?q=school+bus+wiring&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjpp--BoY3OAhVF4CYKHY0pAxoQ_AUICSgC&biw=1120&bih=617#imgrc=zh1bHTk1Euy_2M:

Compared to the professional layout:
https://www.google.com/search?q=bluebird+school+bus+side+panel&biw=1120&bih=617&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiutqTHoo3OAhXG3SYKHTTwDyIQsAQIGw#tbm=isch&tbs=rimg:CbmSULZHrtTqIjiWD0VSAI0ovOqCqTWMHEuPxTng7icCsKU68NM945pqqmVQPD8FOgC7-Qbk34nrVQ4cTcvLm4R3OyoSCZYPRVIAjSi8EZO2UPM_1_1b3KKhIJ6oKpNYwcS48RYnQeZB1_11ToqEgnFOeDuJwKwpRHSV5zWMvlUzioSCTrw0z3jmmqqEe0hUS2wEwM2KhIJZVA8PwU6ALsRVX2TYJkS6-AqEgn5BuTfietVDhHSV5zWMvlUzioSCRxNy8ubhHc7Eba9lUTv4si7&q=bluebird school bus electrical panel&imgrc=uZJQtkeu1Op7YM:

Do yourself a favor, and trust me on this, do not use the crappy crimp only connectors that the run of the mill auto parts houses have. Only use the crimp-solder-heat shrink connectors. Yes they are more expensive, but done correctly they are trouble free.

stamp11127 said:

Do yourself a favor, and trust me on this, do not use the crappy crimp only connectors that the run of the mill auto parts houses have. Only use the crimp-solder-heat shrink connectors. Yes they are more expensive, but done correctly they are trouble free.

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Thanks to both of you for the reply's. I will definitely not turn the truck into something like those photos in the link you provided, I like my work neat and tidy. I just order an assortment of those crimp/solder/heat shrink style connectors, should have them same day from amazon prime
I am going to start a thread on the electric fan install for my truck, since I have found no threads with anyone using a Autocool III. I'll post it when I am done

If you haven't used those connectors before they follow a similar procedure as the junk connectors but after crimping you heat the connector with a torch. This will melt the solder and shrink the heatshrink tubing, bonding it to the wires insulation.

stamp11127 said:

If the battery junction box has a positive lug on one end you could tie the circuit in there

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Is this the battery junction box you were referring to? If it is, can I use this lug to power the fans and controller instead of going straight to the battery terminal itself?

Nope. That is the starter relay. You could test the lug in the foreground to see if it is "hot in run" though.

stamp11127 said:

Nope. That is the starter relay. You could test the lug in the foreground to see if it is "hot in run" though.

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You mean the one up in front of the picture? That's my fused junction box to hook up power to both the fans and fan controller. Should I just hook this up to the battery terminal then?