2001 Expedition too many issues to list

Thank you for the diagrams. I have tested everything and am a little confused by something. The last test for the panel lamp dimmer circuit is failing. I can not get a reading at all when I have the voltmeter on pins 1 and 6. Now this may be my problem on why the dimmer is blowing when I use the 4x4 switch. I am wondering why when my main light switch is hooked up in my car though the dimmer switch still works. I can dim the lights. I can turn on the interior lights with it. Then when I test it, it fails the test.

Check the resistance values on the 4x4 mode switch.

Ok, so the 4x4 switch checked out fine but I also tested that yesterday. Tested it again to be safe. I tested the main light switch and it has no resistance value on the dimmer. Then I fiddled with it again and it did have a resistance value on the dimmer. I got fed up with it and threw it back in the truck, hooked everything back up and gave it whirl. I changed 4x4 modes and my backlight fuse didn't blow. Noticed an entirely knew problem, the headlights don't turn on. All the interior lights work, the dimmer works, the backlight for the instrument panel doesn't blow. So I gave the knob a turn and the parking lights work fine and putting it into auto mode turned on the parking lights. Then I gave the dash a couple of bangs and auto mode would no longer work and the defroster no longer worked. I am officially declaring this a problem of the main light switch. I won't have money to go buy one for a few days. I will update with the results at that point. Oh, I also check the junction box and battery distribution box fuses that control the headlights. They both checked out. I didn't check the bulbs. I guess I should do that. I still think it is the switch though. Too many problems right in that area.

Total price vs repair cost is a tricky decision. For example. I rather dump 2500 into mime than buy a new one for 2000. Why? Because say I put a new trans in it. It will be good for another 150k+ where a new model.... Who knows? You gain the peace of mind that the parts you replaced won't die any time soon.

Alright so a little update with this project. The driver side headlight was missing an adjuster screw and wouldn't sit right so I replaced the housing and everything is all good. The power mirrors now work after a switch replacement. The headlights work again. It wasn't the main light switch or the combination switch. It was the connectors that plugged into the combination switch. The got the new connectors and pulled the wires out of the old ones and plugged them into the new connectors. So now there is no short when switching 4x4 modes and the headlights and brights and instrument panel dimmer and all that fun stuff works. I feel like I am slowly making progress.

The next thing I am working on is the power drivers seat and the power pedals. The seat is confusing me a little. I can get it to go up and down with the switch and even backwards. Trying to move forward will engage the motor but not move it. If you have someone else hold the forward button and you push on the back of the seat at the bottom, you can get the seat to move forward. Is it a different motor for forward and backward or the same one? If it is the same one what would cause forward to jam up?

Now about the pedals. I have searched and searched for 1st gen pedal fixes but can't find any. I can only find stuff about replacing the gear on the 2nd gen ones. My brake pedal moves about a 1/4" either way before it gets stuck. The gas pedal won't move at all. How do I disconnect the wire connected to the gas pedal to see if I can get just the brake pedal to move? If the brake pedal then works ok, how do I fix the gas pedal? I can't seem to see a way to take the assembly apart and replace a gear or anything like that.

Any help always appreciated.

The seat is now fixed. I added a little bit of lithium grease to the track which seems to help some. I also discovered that for some reason if the seat is completely lowered using the down button then it won't move forward past a certain point. If you raise the seat a 1/4" to a 1/2" inch it moves forward all along the track just fine. It is pretty weird in my opinion but at least it didn't require any part.

Still need to figure out the pedals if anyone has any suggestions there.

Got the pedals moved all the way forward. I think I will just have buy new pedals at some point if I want them to work. I think the gears inside the housings are stripped out some.


Discovered a new fun problem though. I wondered why when I doubled locked the door with the key fob that the horn always sounded muted and didn't make a normal your doors are locked chirp. Turns out that if the truck is on, the horn honks normally. If you have the truck off, the horn just makes this muted attempt at honking. It clicks on like it has power going to it but it doesn't make any noise really. You just sort of hear a quick muted noise and that is it. Will have to figure what is causing it. Perhaps some wiring issue from a non stock radio at some point.

Ok, so I have figured out the horn situation. It has a TSB for it. They say it should take an hour. My guess is it will take me three hours at some point.

AZ_Hardwoods said:

Got the pedals moved all the way forward. I think I will just have buy new pedals at some point if I want them to work. I think the gears inside the housings are stripped out some.


Discovered a new fun problem though. I wondered why when I doubled locked the door with the key fob that the horn always sounded muted and didn't make a normal your doors are locked chirp. Turns out that if the truck is on, the horn honks normally. If you have the truck off, the horn just makes this muted attempt at honking. It clicks on like it has power going to it but it doesn't make any noise really. You just sort of hear a quick muted noise and that is it. Will have to figure what is causing it. Perhaps some wiring issue from a non stock radio at some point.

Click to expand...

Mine does this too, although it tends to do it with the regular horn as well. I'm thinking relay issue but I don't see one in a fuse box anywhere but I hear a click when I press the horn. Stilling hunting for a solution to that, even replaced the horns (the originals were bad).

tcwaltz

Read his post just before yours and click on the link for the TSB file This will explain why the horn is muffled and will give you the solution