Spark Plug Replacement 2011 Expedition

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Joined
Oct 3, 2015
Posts
11
Reaction score
2
Location
Oklahoma
I know some versions of this engine have the much discussed issue with changing the spark plugs. What about my 2011 with 100k miles. Can I just change them like the good ole days without fear of issues?
 

ManUpOrShutUp

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 27, 2016
Posts
2,041
Reaction score
1,080
Location
PA
Some Expeditions with a 2007 build date are ok, but all 2008+ build dates are ok. It's a regular one-piece design (SP-509). I do recommend having a couple extensions and flex head sockets on hand just to make things a little easier. Overall though, my '11 Expedition has been the easiest 8-cylinder plug change I've done.
 

ManUpOrShutUp

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 27, 2016
Posts
2,041
Reaction score
1,080
Location
PA
So no special instructions at all?

No, but if you're really fishing .... :) Blow out the spark plug wells with compressed air before attempting to remove the plugs. Make sure the engine is cool before pulling them. Up to you if you want to use (just a little) anti-seize on the plugs; some guys prefer to install dry. I use a little anti-seize because I know I'm going to be the one pulling those plugs out again. Also up to you if you want to use Motorcraft plugs, but the 5.4 3V has a reputation for being fussy about plugs so I did. Don't buy them from the dealer. You can get the SP-509 plug from 101 places online. I paid ~$55 for a set of 8 from Advance with a coupon. Inevitably, someone here will tell you to replace the COPs but if you're not having a problem I suggest leaving them alone. They are not a maintenance item despite popular belief and I think it's pure lunacy to spend ~$300-400 just for the heck of it. The whole job takes about 2 hours. Add time if you're taking a few moments to resist the urge to throw your wrench through the windshield after pulling a stubborn plug in the back. :D
 

Habbibie

Is it Christmas yet?
Joined
Feb 2, 2016
Posts
1,854
Reaction score
564
Location
Chicago
Remove the PCM and it's bracket out of the way (7 10mm screws total) don't disconnect it just move it. Makes it so much easier reaching cylinder #4 (rear passenger plug)
 

Bedrck47

Full Access Members
Joined
Jul 4, 2014
Posts
5,641
Reaction score
652
Location
Elizebethtown, PA
No, but if you're really fishing .... :) Blow out the spark plug wells with compressed air before attempting to remove the plugs. Make sure the engine is cool before pulling them. Up to you if you want to use (just a little) anti-seize on the plugs; some guys prefer to install dry. I use a little anti-seize because I know I'm going to be the one pulling those plugs out again. Also up to you if you want to use Motorcraft plugs, but the 5.4 3V has a reputation for being fussy about plugs so I did. Don't buy them from the dealer. You can get the SP-509 plug from 101 places online. I paid ~$55 for a set of 8 from Advance with a coupon. Inevitably, someone here will tell you to replace the COPs but if you're not having a problem I suggest leaving them alone. They are not a maintenance item despite popular belief and I think it's pure lunacy to spend ~$300-400 just for the heck of it. The whole job takes about 2 hours. Add time if you're taking a few moments to resist the urge to throw your wrench through the windshield after pulling a stubborn plug in the back. :D


I do agree with you on this. However, Being you have to remove the cops and boots to get to the plugs I would suggest that the boots also be replaced. And use some dielectric grease when installing new boots
 

ManUpOrShutUp

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 27, 2016
Posts
2,041
Reaction score
1,080
Location
PA
I do agree with you on this. However, Being you have to remove the cops and boots to get to the plugs I would suggest that the boots also be replaced. And use some dielectric grease when installing new boots

Fair point. I don't generally replace mine until the second plug change unless there is a sign of problems mechanically or on the plug itself. Considering how cheap they are though, I think replacing them is reasonable.
 

SDExpedition

Member
Joined
Sep 11, 2016
Posts
20
Reaction score
4
Location
On a Lake somewhere.
No, but if you're really fishing .... :) Blow out the spark plug wells with compressed air before attempting to remove the plugs. Make sure the engine is cool before pulling them. Up to you if you want to use (just a little) anti-seize on the plugs; some guys prefer to install dry. I use a little anti-seize because I know I'm going to be the one pulling those plugs out again. Also up to you if you want to use Motorcraft plugs, but the 5.4 3V has a reputation for being fussy about plugs so I did. Don't buy them from the dealer. You can get the SP-509 plug from 101 places online. I paid ~$55 for a set of 8 from Advance with a coupon. Inevitably, someone here will tell you to replace the COPs but if you're not having a problem I suggest leaving them alone. They are not a maintenance item despite popular belief and I think it's pure lunacy to spend ~$300-400 just for the heck of it. The whole job takes about 2 hours. Add time if you're taking a few moments to resist the urge to throw your wrench through the windshield after pulling a stubborn plug in the back. :D


The problem with anti-sieze is it can leak down onto the electrode and foul the plug. That's why most don't use it.
 

ManUpOrShutUp

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 27, 2016
Posts
2,041
Reaction score
1,080
Location
PA
The problem with anti-sieze is it can leak down onto the electrode and foul the plug. That's why most don't use it.

There is also a concern about the increased likelihood of over-torquing. A little common sense goes a long way though. I brush on a very thin film of it and keep it away from the last few threads; it's not making it's way down to the electrode. Nonetheless, I wasn't advocating for or against it. I simply said that I use it.
 

DesertFordRat

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2016
Posts
87
Reaction score
9
Location
Tucson, Az
I did my 2011 exp plugs. I removed the intake up to the throttle body. Other than that I don't recall having to remove anything else. It was simple, but those plug holes are dirty as F. Definitely buy canned air or use an air compressor prior to removing the plugs.
 
Top