Roller rockers tapping

1955moose said:

Well from what I just read about an 07 f150 trans service, should be same as yours. Ford recommends 100 k on service, 60 k severe duty. Their is a magnet and filter you can change. To refill, theirs a bolt on passenger side of pan you remove, and theirs a little yellow funnel inside. You fill through little funnel. Dealer just flushes it, and doesn't replace filter, or clean pan. ( Yikes) well their you have it. Problem is without a stick, I'd measure fluid coming out, and get as close as you can. Makes me wonder does dealer guess how much fluid they put back?


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Good info, I think I'll measure the fluid taken out, and replace the same amount. Sounds like a plan, thanks much

At least with a drain plug, you won't spill much taking out old fluid! You do have a drain plug?


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Not sure if the 2007 5.4 uses oil restrictors in the head but if they do it will cause all the rockers/lifters to clack when running.

this is for the 4.6:

1955moose said:

At least with a drain plug, you won't spill much taking out old fluid! You do have a drain plug?


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I'll have to crawl under and look, i've been over there before and somethings telling me that I do, you are correct in that it would be much easier to measure the removed fluid level that way.

Back to the engine real quick though, I wanted to mention I have the old rocker that we replaced a couple of years ago and the roller on the rocker froze. I'm guessing an indication of poor oil flow. I'm sure the previous owner although did regular oil change intervals, did not use quality oil. Would you still think the lifters would cause that? If I have to replace all the lifters that would obviously entail pulling the intake of which I'd rather not do. If I could get away with just pulling Valve covers and replacing the rockers, I'd rather that. But! Thoughts?

Can you get at plungers of lifters with cams and rockers intact. I've never done this particular motor. Maybe you can push down on lifters individually and check to see if their free. But if one lifter is not pumping up, it will cause clacking, due to excessive clearance. You can usually see a worn rocker. Metal is scarred and missing. It looks nasty! If your plan is to just do rockers, that's what you do. We all hope for a simple fix, but keep in mind this is not a 1950's flathead! Good luck, keep us posted how it turns out.


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1955moose said:

Can you get at plungers of lifters with cams and rockers intact. I've never done this particular motor. Maybe you can push down on lifters individually and check to see if their free. But if one lifter is not pumping up, it will cause clacking, due to excessive clearance. You can usually see a worn rocker. Metal is scarred and missing. It looks nasty! If your plan is to just do rockers, that's what you do. We all hope for a simple fix, but keep in mind this is not a 1950's flathead! Good luck, keep us posted how it turns out.


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Will do, thanks for all your help. A little date you guys once I've opened up the motor.

12topcop said:

I have another question for you, off-topic. Since I've always been big into changing fluids on regular intervals, I'm also concerned about the transmission, since there is no dipstick like older vehicles have to refill the fluid once you've changed The filter, I see that it is a sealed transmission, how do I change the fluid and filter? I've looked on YouTube and watched a few videos, and it shows a very small filler neck down by the pan. Should I be concerned about changing the fluid? Or just wait till the transmission dies and replace it?

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I had the rumbling effect at 35-45 mph range when I bought my truck, likely due to a torque converter wearing out.

I was terrified that my transmission needed to be replaced so I watched youtube videos and scoured the web for info. On a whim, I tried some transmission doctor (Friction modifier) to test and see if it's possible that it was just bad transmission fluid. I got up under the car, removed the bolt on the transmission and added a bottle. Sure enough, took the rumbling right out. Figured it was time to check the transmission fluid as it was probably old and worn out since I bought the car used and it was already 8 years old when I bought it.

This was the video that I followed.


Instead of using that fancy metal filler he used, I just bought a simple multi-use two-way pump from the auto parts store and used that. Worked like a charm to both pump out the old transmission fluid and pump in new fluid. I just put back as much as I took out and then use the little dip stick to check it at the end. Be careful not to break the little yellow dip stick. I broke mine but thankfully it didn't fall into the transmission. I had to fix it by embedding a steel rod in it and using JB weld. I probably need to order a replacement, if I can find one.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/performance-tools-multi-use-pump-w1145/7071094-P

In searching just now for a replacement Ford Expedition dip stick replacement, I found this link to someone who took photos of their transmission fluid swap and they used a similar pump for this procedure as well. Bad news so far, I cannot find a replacement dipstick.

http://thephuck.com/uncategorized/h...7-expedition-and-2009-f150-6-speed-automatic/


Couple of handy tips:

1. If you are working on this and it's not completely cold, be sure to wear good mechanics gloves. The pan for the transmission is right next to the catalytic converter and gets pretty hot right there. You have to check the fluid level at hot, so be careful. The recommendations from the video above are very helpful (fill to bottom of hatch area when warm).

2. Be 100% sure you get the right filter for your transmission. I went through all the effort of dropping my pan and turns out they sold me the wrong filter. I ended up having to put the old one back on and never changed it.

3. Your drip pan removal procedure may be slightly different based on year and model. The screws near the back (towards rear of vehicle) were partially blocked by my exhaust system. Getting those screws removed was really rough and frustrating.

4. If you just want to change your fluid, I recommend just siphoning out your old fluid through the fill port. You'll probably only be able to siphon out about 4 quarts or so. Just make sure you have enough fluid to put back into the transmission as you took out.


Changing the transmission fluid has proved to be fairly easy now that I got that siphon pump. Takes about 10 minutes or so, really something you can do at regular intervals if you want. My truck drives much smoother after changing the fluid out.

1955moose said:

At least with a drain plug, you won't spill much taking out old fluid! You do have a drain plug?


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I haven't had a chance to crawl under the truck since we last spoke.. I did though speak to my parts guy at the dealership about my tapping rockers, he seems to think it could be collapsed lifter as well. He states that these 5.4 L are notorious for collapse lifters and loose timing chains at high mileage. He even told me it would be cheaper to replace the engine with a low mileage used one for a brand-new long block if I intended on keeping it, as opposed to replacing on my lifters timing chain and rockers on the current engine. So the saga continues .

Ask your parts guy at dealer to go on his nationwide parts locater. I've had good luck finding discontinued parts at other dealers in the country. If that doesn't work. Try a pick your own part wrecking yard. Pull it off a transmission, and your done. Good luck with the other repairs.


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