docraymund
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Another area to be checked is the key reminder switch in the ignition lock.
I think my key lost it's programming, how do I get the truck started?
- Thread starter 98EXPY 5-0
- Start date
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docraymund
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Have you tried this? Courtesy of FTE forum.
Disconnect the battery. Wait 2 minutes for the module to lose all traces of voltage. Turn the ignition key to the RUN position. Reconnect the battery. Shut the key OFF and press LOCK on the drivers door switch. It's called reinitializing the alarm.”
Disconnect the battery. Wait 2 minutes for the module to lose all traces of voltage. Turn the ignition key to the RUN position. Reconnect the battery. Shut the key OFF and press LOCK on the drivers door switch. It's called reinitializing the alarm.”
whitelightning99
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so when i took the column panels off that goes around behind the steering wheel i noticed there was a wire that was taped up an it was looped together and was just hanging right around were the key switch is .So i am goona guess that has something to do with the key and its program ?
docraymund
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If you are not the original owner then the guy before you must have made modifications in that area.
98EXPY 5-0
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I didn't get to do anything with this all weekend. I'll try this one tonight. Along with checking fuses and taking the column cover off to check out the transponder ring.
98EXPY 5-0
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I'm not exactly sure what this is. I did pull the column plastics off and remove the lock cylinder. I cleaned the contacts on the lock,and inside the socket with an eraser,but they didn't look that dirty to begin with.
I couldn't try to start it because the battery is low from sitting . I did turn the key on and the theft light just blinks wildly,then gives 13 code.
At one point while the cylinder was out,of course the ignition is the run position,I heard a relay cycling. the dome light went on and off with the relay. I think the running board lights were cycling too ,but I don't remember. the relay was under the dash,or in the driver foot well .
docraymund
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It might have been due to low battery voltage.
98EXPY 5-0
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SHE LIVES!
A buddy put me in touch with a Ford Technician. He borrowed the scanner from work and checked my system. The key I had wouldn't accept programming. Everything else with the system was fine.
He had told me to get an unprogrammed PATS key from the dealer to have ready for him to program so I'd have two. Luckily I got two keys cut because now after junking the first key, I still have two programmed keys and can program my own third key. The key I had is junk. It still opens the hatch, but other than that, it's useless.
A buddy put me in touch with a Ford Technician. He borrowed the scanner from work and checked my system. The key I had wouldn't accept programming. Everything else with the system was fine.
He had told me to get an unprogrammed PATS key from the dealer to have ready for him to program so I'd have two. Luckily I got two keys cut because now after junking the first key, I still have two programmed keys and can program my own third key. The key I had is junk. It still opens the hatch, but other than that, it's useless.
Bedrck47
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Glad it LIVES and thanks for the update.
I would destroy the bad key and get yourself two more Ford chipped keys and program them I am sure you don't want to go thru all of this again
I would destroy the bad key and get yourself two more Ford chipped keys and program them I am sure you don't want to go thru all of this again
98EXPY 5-0
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Yep. Monday I plan to stop by and get another key cut.
I guess I can put the road flare back in the garage.
Thanks for everyone's suggestions.
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