no start when hot.

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Bedrck47

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I understand what your saying, however not completely true. They are know issues that can cause this problem. There are also many ford owners with the same problems, same fix. Maybe not in this case, but how do I know unless I ask. How may owners have had rear control arms rust out. Same problem same fix.

You are somewhat correct Rear control arms What else could you use in their place No options.

And yes there are known issues but at this point your guessing and until you do some troubleshooting and rule things out. And throwing parts into it can be expensive.


Your problem is no start when HOT. So is it an electrical problem or a mechanical problem or a combination of both?
 
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stamp11127

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You get the facts to help narrow the search for the cause.
Are you getting enough fuel?
Are you getting spark?
Is the crank sensor failing?
Is the ignition switch or harness the cause?
Etc
Right now you have a bunch of "could be's" that need to be eliminated.
 
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Charles Musick

Charles Musick

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You get the facts to help narrow the search for the cause.
Are you getting enough fuel?
Are you getting spark?
Is the crank sensor failing?
Is the ignition switch or harness the cause?
Etc
Right now you have a bunch of "could be's" that need to be eliminated.
Yes I know that. That is what I'm asking. I have not checked the crank sensor. I'm not sure how. Do I need to check when hot, sense that when the problem occurs? Ive considered the ignition switch also. I'm not sure how to test it. Would it allow the car to start at all if failing? I've tried different keys as well. The anti theft light seems to be working properly.
It would seem that I'm getting a spark because the truck will start when hot runs lean for a minute and finaly stalls- afterward it will not start. I checked the coils (not saying that they are getting power). If they are failing when hot will a cold ohm test work. I know it could be a lot of different things causing this. I thought the occasional smell of gas might help point to the problem. I'm not just throwing darts, replacing parts.
 
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Charles Musick

Charles Musick

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You are somewhat correct Rear control arms What else could you use in their place No options.

And yes there are known issues but at this point your guessing and until you do some troubleshooting and rule things out. And throwing parts into it can be expensive.


Your problem is no start when HOT. So is it an electrical problem or a mechanical problem or a combination of both?
Thanks. Maybe I stated the original post incorrect. It should be.
How do I trouble shoot hot start problems. I have checked these.
I have not ruled these out however it does start for a minute. When I smelled gas humm the pump must be working, so what else could this be. I working on it this weekend so IF it's not the fuel pressure , I wanted to know the next step.
 

Flexpedition

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My focus would be on what the Intake Air Temperature Sensor is reporting when this occurs. When they fail or begin to fail, its not uncommon for them to "report" to the PCM that its -40° F outside. When that kind of reading is given, a rich mixture is ordered and your truck won't start. Might be worth removing and cleaning this sensor from the intake tube if you haven't already. Wouldn't merely replace without knowing its output.
 

Bedrck47

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The bad thing about doing bench testing is you are doing it under different conditions. cold vs. hot load vs. no load.

Try getting a can of starting fluid and the next time you get a no start spray a little into the throttle body and see if you get it to fire up. It will only run for a short time but if it does fire and then you try again and it doesn't start it could be something if the fuel lines

Maybe you have a fuel line collapsing. I know that sounds like a guess but it could prove to be a good guess.

How many miles are on the expy??
 
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Charles Musick

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The bad thing about doing bench testing is you are doing it under different conditions. cold vs. hot load vs. no load.

Try getting a can od starting fluid and the next time you get a no start spray a little into the throttle body and see if you get it to fire up. It will only run for a short time but if it does fire and then you try again and it doesn't start it could be something if the fuel lines

Maybe you have a fuel line collapsing. I know that sounds like a guess but it could prove to be a good guess.

How many miles are on the expy??
I was wondering about the hot vs cold bench test. Thats all I'm looking for is a few suggestions, and yours sounds good. I had thought about the vacum lines collapsing but didn't think about the fuel lines. Do you happen to know, If it were a coil pack would it only show bad when hot. I've heard they can crack and cause this. Is the crack visible. I'll try the starting fluid.
Millage 180,000. Been a good truck.
 
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Charles Musick

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I got a scan tool
ST FTRM1 % 5.4
LT FRRM1 % 25
ST FTRM2 % 3.1
LT FTRM2 % 25

From the reading does it seem that my O2 sensors are bad? Or not enough info?
Rps 749
Maf flow 6.28
I'm working today so still unable to pressure test fuel.
I did check the intake air sensor, and I think it's ok. If I'm reading correct.
 

docraymund

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Based on your data, you may have a bad fuel pump check valve and a weak fuel pump. Though you didn't mention how it starts in the morning when it's sitting overnight. You need to get a fuel pressure gauge and monitor the reading when the engine is both cold and hot.
 

jaytron

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sounds like a lose of vacuum...these motors are notorious for having pcv lines go bad from rot and wear....with motor on a idling rough spray some brake cleaner in the areas along the pcv line...if idle picks up to normal then you have a hole in the line somewhere
 

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