Air conditioning issue

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stamp11127

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If you didn't pull a vacuum on the system before adding the r134a it is probably contaminated with air.
Your initial readings of "0" indicate a leak in the system. That should be fixed before continuing.

See the sticky in the heat & Cooling section for a pressure chart. Your current pressures are low due the amount of charge in the system.
 

osama

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Mr. Tomm5151

Please, What is the Application name you used on your Samsung mobile to grab those parameters results ?
 

TobyU

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Late to thread but I am an AC guru. Been doing it since about 10 years old when R-12 was .88 a can. 609 cert since 1994.

I skimmed through and prob missed a lot but first thing....don't buy the overpriced cans with hose ever again.
You can use the hose you have probably for a low side relative pressure but they are not very trustworthy.
Get a charging hose or side can tap and buy the plain ol R-134a cans at Rural King for 3.99-4.99 or Walmart for 4.88. (still a rip off by BTW)

It would be best to get at least a cheap or even used manifold gauge set but for now....

When you get a new/used vehicle and don't know history.
You start car and turn on ac and put it on max cold and see if compressor kicks on and spins the inside of clutch which I saw you did.

You also make sure there is a belt on it esp if GM as the trucks use a separate little belt and the idler pulley locks up and burns it off.

Then you take the low side (larger ) port cap off and press down with something the little center valve or stick hose on. You want to see if there is any pressure in it.

If it's completely empty you prob have a bad leak and you need to pump it down before going any further.

Usually you have pressure. It's just low. So you get a can and a hose and add.
I shake the can continuously while putting in and even invert it for a couple of seconds from time to time. Some people will balk at this but when you are way up by the firewall or it has an av bottle you are not going to harm compressor with too much liquid unless you go nuts.


Usually when the can gets halfway or almost in the compressor will click on for about 3 seconds then back off.
That's the pressure switch doing it job.
When the can is empty. Take hose off, reload with 2nd can adn pop hose back on and repeat.


Often 2 cans gets the comp to stay on and gets pretty cool.

You should put the idle at about 1200-1500 and charge to low side is between 28 and 42.
Most are as good as they are going to get about 32-37. I like the digital Taylor cooking thermometer from Meijer or maybe walmart . About 6.99-8.99.
You can keep eye on inside center duct position....have it on high fan and recirc. More is better after you reach a certain point adding more refregerant makes the temp rise and is hard of lots of stuff. Don't do it.

It's nice to have a gauge set for high side and to watch needle smoothness of comp pumping adnd to see if any restrictions etc.
The high side when ambient (outside) temps are 80-90 will usually be about 225-275 max.

I also like to use a garden hose on to keep condenser in front of rad wet.
This helps the condensation state change that the "freon" ahhem R-134a refrigerant....I'm old remember, take place better.
Makes inside duct temp drop a lot and lowers high side (head ) pressure.


You should never have to add over 3 cans unless it has rear air and way low.
They all have a sticker that tell you the total charge so you can estimate so not to overcharge.
can is 12 oz but you get about 10.5-11 out of it.

That's about it for the starting basic to get a general idea of if it will cool and then you see how long until the comp starts kicking on and off a lot and stops cooling as it leaks out.

You get a baseline. Then we go from there.

You can try a can with stopleak but that is just a o-ring conditioner and works a little sometimes but don't put over 4 oz total in one.
Don't fall for the ice and space age additives or 1 oz super stuff to make it better than r-134a. Yes R-134a SUCKS but nothing on the market in a can for more money makes is any better.

You can go with an HC replacement and get better cooling but no reason on Ford trucks.
They have great ac that was designed with plenty of capacity and with just the properly working parts they will be just fine.
 
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