Are you checking the sway bar bushings on the ground or with the vehicle lifted. Sometimes bad bushings only show up on the ground with someone rocking it from side to side
There were add on keypads that were available from ford. They were attached to the door with double sided tape and had the five buttons just like the factory keypads. They programmed just like a key fob since they were wireless. This was quite a few years ago though.
When it is very cold nothing wants to move or turn. Gear oil and grease resist movement. Try pushing a cold vehicle. They don't want to move. Not to mention warm up time.
I would check the pcv vacuum tube assembly for soft or folded rubber connectors. You may have disturbed one while disconnecting the heater hoses. It runs from the rear of the intake to the pcv valve. I snapped mine while flushing my heater core recently.
p0743 relates to the torque converter clutch circuit. I am just going from memory so don't take this as gospel. I would find the torque converter clutch solenoid ground wire since I believe it is ground side switched and check for shorts. Maybe the engine rotation when engaged if forward...
Are you getting any water leakage from the windshield? This was considered the cause of some of the failures. When the box is out look at the 2 large connector sockets on the back side for any traces of water or dried residue from previous leakage
when you do them check the axles for grooves from riding on the seal. Sometimes you can find a repair sleeve or leave the seal 1/16 of an inch out to ride on new metal.
Also worn outer bearings can cause axle seal failure. Check the bearing surface on the axle for pitting.
Plugged heater core?
When the heat is blowing cool feel the heater lines. Both should be very hot if the heater is ok. If one is hot and the other lukewarm to cool then you have a blockage in the core. Check your coolant level first and be sure it is full when checking.
all of the headgasket issues i dealt with were always for oil leakage. A multi layer steel gasket works well as long as the surfaces are flat. Could there be any leakage at the under body lines to the rear heater core? Are you losing any coolant? Tstat is easy enough to try but rare to fail...
in very cold weather condensation could freeze in the pcv valve/line plugging the vacuum source. It leads to an oliy mess. I still remember retrofitting these system into tempo's under a recall
and it wasn't fun
I would try replacing the alternator. There is an interference issue which manifests itself as a cmp code probably due to the wire routing. I don't know if it is magnetic interference or ac voltage on the output wire but I have seen it and it did repair the code.
Tom is 100% right the early 3v motors were the ones with plug removal problems. Personally I would suggest sticking with motorcraft plugs. They were designed to last 100k. Why chance anything else?
are you sure that the header surface to the head is flat? I would just pull the header and have it machined or go back to the stock manifold also, with a fresh surface.
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