I love reading and seeing detailed write-ups and I'm sure others do too. But it's a lot of work. You can be sure if you post one, it will help out countless readers.
Kevmobile's post is spot on. If I were doing the work myself, or if I had a good mechanic who could be trusted, I'd sink the $1,500 in parts into it, drop and clean out the pan and call it a day. And I'd only use Ford Motorcraft parts.
I've done this work on an Explorer and it took about 12...
It can easily be repaired with hose and clamps. That's how the world does it. I put a little flare on the metal tube where I connect the hose to help secure it. As Mr. Dave says, the proper way is to replace the lines.
I did the same job on a 4.8L 2010 Explorer with 135,000 miles. My followers and cams were fine, so I did exactly what Max did: I held the cams with ViceGrips. Just mark everything well and don't wash the markings off.
I drive an 08 in suburban New York traffic and generally get about 60K miles from a set of Motorcraft brake pads. At that mileage, my rotors usually look pretty gouged up. Nobody around here cuts them anymore, so I usually look for a bargain on Motorcraft rotors. Two rotors, pads and hardware...
I use Expeditions as work trucks, buy them with steel wheels and base trim. What's left for me? I want a tool, not entertainment or prestige. Just an F-150 in my future?
The muffler, or resonator in your truck is packed with the Fibreglas. It's coming out. You need a new one. I suppose you can yank out what's loose and hope for the best.
Some years had the skid plates, some did not. Just as some had running boards. My '08 has an engine skid plate, transfer case skid plate and a plate under the fuel tank.
That's more than I pay for my OEM Motorcraft rotors, pads, pins and boots. And I get 55,000 miles out of those in city driving. I swear by them after years of cheaping out with aftermarket junk that warps in a month.
To each his own I suppose.
Anyone doing these brakes, in the northeast at...
I doubt it is electrical. If a circuit is popping I suspect it's because of mechanical drag on the components. I think if you change the regulator, you'll be okay.
Ford's offering for dealer installation was made by Code-Alarm of Long Island, NY. There was a plug and play kit of all parts available from Ford with a part number. I have it in a 2008, and it works wonderfully.
As Nvsteve mentions above, the bulkhead connector is the fitting that runs control wires through the transmission case. It's a common leak point, and requires the pan to be dropped and an "O" ring replaced. Fluid drips out of it onto the pan flange and it looks like the pan is leaking.
A $25...
Does anyone have any thoughts on where I can store a Hi-Lift (farm) jack in a regular-sized Expedition? I tale it with me when driving on the beach, and usually juts throw it in the back with a fabric case.
CV Joint on the front axle bad? How about a wheel bearing? Get all four wheels off the ground and listen with a mechanic's stethoscope while it's running. Noises like these travel all over the place and their origin can be very hard to locate. Spend time diagnosing before replacing...
For those who like meddling with these things, the window regulator on these trucks is a completely self-contained unit with a bolt-on motor. The unit has pulleys and cords that control the window. When they slow down, the regulator is gummed up and the tracks get dirty. Usually the entire...
Sounds like you have some aftermarket warranty from a private provider. You shouldn't have to pay to replace a defective part. On another hand, I would only use a Motorcraft OEM regulator. It seems that Chinese replacement window regulators are often of very poor quality. They are cheap -...
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