My vehicle had 150k plus miles. Threw a code for a coil and then threw a code for another coil after replacing the other. It was cheaper to buy a whole set of coils than 2 or 3 and keep replacing. I replaced them all and the plugs and have had no problems since. I’m in Texas and the heat does...
There was a recall on transmission for that year, it’s a reprogram. It had some issues of bogging.
I had a 2012 with 156k. I replaced all the coil packs, buying 8 is cheaper than buying 3 or 4. It made a difference and an easy replacement. Should change the plugs at the same time.
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I had the same problem. The plastic track breaks and jams. Mine was closing at an angle, only one track was broken. I was able to push the glass closed with my hand as I held down the button. When the motor is trying to close it and it gets resistance, the motor surges and reverses. If you can...
I replaced my drivers side on my 2012 limited. I removed the panel below the steering wheel and the pedal assembly from the firewall. I was able to access the blend door actuator fairly easily. Depending on which AC system you have it may be in a different location.
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Which cable? You’re not talking about the white padding (side air bags)? What are you doing that it takes up too much room?
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Could be trans related, lots of things will retard the engine. There was a recall in mid 3rd gen trans for a software update to fix the car stumbling on acceleration and didn’t throw a code. Sounds like the engine is in good shape.
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If jiggling it made it work then it’s either a broken wire or the bulb socket has a loose connection in it. I would check the the socket carefully and look for bad wires. If nothing is obvious you’ll need to get a multi tester and figure out which wire is the culprit.
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If you do change your plugs, just order the extractor tool from Lisle. It’s about $75. If one breaks you can fix it. Hopefully someone changed them by now.
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Ok update...
I removed the 3 bolts for the accelerator assy with no problems. I left all the wires connected and was able to push it out of the way and fairly easily remove the actuator.
FYI if you’re doing this yourself when you install the new actuator, if the shaft doesn’t line up, you can...
The lower blender door actuator for the defrost on the drivers side above the accelerator pedal is clicking. I can get the harness disconnected and the bolt next to it out. But there appears to be another bolt on the firewall side which I can not see nor remove.
It looks like I could access it...
My Chilton says like 400 ft lbs torque for the lower front strut bolt. Is this correct, seems a little high even for a stretch bolt.
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The sunroof is stuck fully open. It will only close about 1 inch and then reopen. The drivers side is hung up or the tract is messed up. If I pull on the drivers side, it will close about 7 inches and then it reopens because is gets too much resistance. Is there any way to force it closed...
The correct fan speed controller had fixed the fan and it turns out the condenser had a hole in it. So that's replaced and back to cold air. Thanks to everyone for the help.
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