That was it! Fixed it. Connector the pcm wasn’t making good contact. Reshaped the connector after depinning it and now it’s reading perfectly and heating up properly.
Well, this expedition has been a bucket of fun I tell you! I went to take it to get it smogged and was going through the emissions readiness monitors- got em all to be good and then got a check engine light- P0059 and P2197 which indicate drivers side upstream O2 sensor.
I checked in Forscan...
Ok, looks like they did indeed replace the fuel pump but didn’t put any new clamps on the lines so it was leaking down. Found a decently reviewed decent price sender and pump put it in and no issues anymore. New sender on the right.
Well… I thought So too but now the fuel pump is losing its prime and I have to turn the key off and on a number of times before it builds pressure to start. Guessing they did an Amazon special pump. Once it starts it runs fine and holds pressure but shutting it off the pressure bleeds off fast...
125 psi compression on the formerly dead bank.
I was able to piece back together the broken guide so I have all of it! I didn’t see any aluminum shavings in the head valleys so I’ll take that for the best.
I’ll tell you it was not a fun job to do! But thanks to this forum for all the help!
I haven't done a compression test- but on the suspicion that I might have bad gas in the tank since who knows how old it is, I pulled the fuel pump fuse, and sprayed starting fluid in the intake. Started right up and idled great till it ran out of starting fluid.
Ok, finally got around to redoing the timing. Looks like the previous owner used some cheap chinesium parts and put in new cam phasers. I think they didn’t change the timing chains and certainly didn’t change the tensioners and guides. One of the timing chains was stretched enough it ate the...
Sure enough it sheared the pin and let it rotate. Got the new phaser on, put the borescope in the oil fill to verify timing mark was in correct position, snaked down to the crank and found a broken off piece of tensioner on the way. Gah
Borescope arrived today! I put a it down in the #5 cylinder (Drivers side front)- and with the drivers side phaser aligned how it should be for cam timing the cylinder is at top dead center- but the exhaust valve is open. not enough to hit the piston but it's open. I'm thinking maybe it...
Will do, thanks for the link. I've had an old black and white mac tools one that has started to really fritz out- that one looks nice. I'll keep updating as I find stuff.
yeah someone's definitely had the valve cover off before. I heard the phasers had both an R and an L on them, but haven't checked. I did a leak down test and all the air was going into the crankcase. Seems hard to have that happen all at once for multiple cylinders on the same bank unless the...
No maintenance history unfortunately. I did pop off the cover hoping for something obvious like a sheared pin in the phaser. I’m going to do a leak down test and see if it bent the valves. Hoping not as then I can potentially just do a timing kit and a high volume oil pump.
142,510 miles...
Well after checking every electrical connection and ground I could find in the wiring diagrams that touched the ecu I did a compression check. Drivers side cylinders are all almost zero compression. I’ll do a leak down and figure out if it’s skipped timing or if it’s bent valves.
I have been wondering about that as well. the security light doesn't flash during cranking at all. I used forscan and it says the primary key is inserted so I think that part is working. I also replaced the fuse box with no change.
Ok, I bought a 2006 Ford Expedition from a lady whose mechanic was throwing parts at it trying to fix a crank but no start issue.
I've been going through things one at a time to verify various things.
Her mechanic had put this laundry list on- 2 new camshaft position sensors, O2 sensor right...
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