1997 5.4 Exhuast Flange Stud Replacement

[1955moose]

Look under the hood of one of the newer f150's. everything's right there. Maybe the day will come, with technology, when we won't need any of the millions of sensors and modules, and garbage to get in the way, and our engines will be like an old straight 8 engine, easy to work on. Of course by then robots will do everything, from working on, to driving our vehicles. My prediction is around year 2053. Ford will celebrate its 150th anniversary, the price tag will be around $150,000.


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[MISTERgadget]

For a temporary fix without risking a big can of worms just go with these

Exhaust Stud Clamp Kit for V8 & V10 Trucks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E4TMK60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_1Siuyb17B5AGV

 

[whitelightning99]

now those's are pretty cool

 

[The Swagonmaster]

Recently I saw a utube video where a guy used pretty neat trick to loosen a broken bolt. He heated the area with a small torch and used an old candle on the bolt while it was still good and hot. The wax seeped into the threads like penetrating oil but better. Seemed to work very well.

 

[tinkering]

I got my oxy propane torch together. It works pretty good at freeing the fasteners... heat, then douse with water via a garden sprayer. Two studs stayed in the head, and there were two studs rusted and broken flush with the head from quite awhile ago.

I am going to 'lock' two 8mm nuts together on the left behind studs, and try backing them out of the head with air impact.
I have to drill those previously broken studs, so I bought an angle air drill from Princess Auto for $65 CAD. There is not enough room in there for a straight drill, air or otherwise.

I bought new exhaust manifolds from PartsAvatar, and Amazon for $140/$150 CAD; I don't have to worry about using those old cooked manifolds.
I am going to replace all the studs.

I did some creative reconstruction on the old EGR tube. They are $100.00 +/- new. I will try to post a few pics.

WHAT IS THE TORQUE FOR THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD STUDS? IS IT THE SAME TORQUE AS THE NUTS? I can't find it in the manual I downloaded.

 

[1955moose]

I would put the two 8 mm nuts together, and use a wrench or socket, that way you have a better feel backing them out. You can go forward and back. An impact might break the studs when you back them out. Always better to have a feel of the bolt when removing. You can stop if it doesn't move.


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[1955moose]

Torque for the Exaust manifold nuts is 17-20 ft lbs, and the collector nuts 25-34 ft lbs. as stated before I like to use just a small amount of anti seize on threads. If you ever have to remove down the road, it's a god sent. The nuts actually come off.


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[tinkering]

I would put the two 8 mm nuts together, and use a wrench or socket, that way you have a better feel backing them out. You can go forward and back. An impact might break the studs when you back them out. Always better to have a feel of the bolt when removing. You can stop if it doesn't move.


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That's true. That's right, I'll go by hand first. If I have to break it off and drill it out I am prepared for that too. I don't want to put too much more heat around the head; I will drill and extract rather than worry about warpage or cracking.

 

[tinkering]

Torque for the Exhaust manifold nuts is 17-20 ft lbs, and the collector nuts 25-34 ft lbs. as stated before I like to use just a small amount of anti seize on threads. If you ever have to remove down the road, it's a god sent. The nuts actually come off.


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What about the a torque on the new studs into the head?... same as nuts? You bet, I will put high temp anti seize on there. Thanks

 

[1955moose]

No problem, you don't want to drill when you don't have to. Always better to save old threads/ studs. It doesn't take much to cross drill a broken stud. Check with any machine shops in your area, they usually have something trick to drill through stud.


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