2003 with a bad flywheel-flexplate

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

gt50_90

Member
Joined
Nov 5, 2014
Posts
7
Reaction score
0
Location
paducah , Ky
I bought the wife a 2003 4x4 (awd) Expedition last year, it had a starter noise when I bought it , just figured it needed a starter, well I pull the starter and it was chewed all to pieces and the flywheel is shot.
So my question is , Can the 5.4 motor be pulled threw the top ? I have pulled the rad and started cleaning and pulling parts off the motor. I just want to know before I get to far in to it if I'm going in the wrong .
 

Bedrck47

Full Access Members
Joined
Jul 4, 2014
Posts
5,641
Reaction score
652
Location
Elizebethtown, PA
Copied from the 03 Ford Service Manual less pictures

SECTION 303-01B: Engine — 5.4L (4V) 2003 Expedition/Navigator Workshop Manual
REMOVAL Procedure revision date: 12/06/2002

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Engine

Special Tool(s) Modular Engine Lifting Bar
303-F047 (014-00073)
Remover, Power Steering Pump Pulley
211-016 (T69L-10300-B)

Removal

Remove the hood.
Remove the radiator. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03 .
Recover the A/C system refrigerant. For additional information, refer to Section 412-00 .
Remove the lower intake manifold. For additional information, refer to Lower Intake Manifold in this section.
Disconnect the powertrain control module (PCM) electrical connectors.

Remove the PCM mounting bolts and the PCM.

Remove the bolts and the PCM mounting bracket.

Disconnect the auxiliary heater hoses at the right side valve cover.

Disconnect the heater hoses at the heater core.

Disconnect the A/C hoses from the junction block.

Remove the safety clips and disconnect the spring lock couplers at the evaporator core. For additional information, refer to Section 412-00 .

Rotate the belt tensioner counterclockwise and remove the drive belt.

NOTE: Position the rubber boot aside to access the B+ cable.

Disconnect the generator electrical connectors.

Remove the bolts and the generator.

Using the special tool, remove the power steering pump pulley.

Remove the nuts and disconnect the transmission cooler tube and the power steering hose brackets.

Disconnect the power steering pressure hose.
Drain the power steering fluid into a suitable container.

Remove the three bolts and position the power steering pump out of the way.

Disconnect the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) valve tube nut from the LH exhaust manifold and remove the tube.

Remove the engine noise shield.

Squeeze the clamps and disconnect the hoses.
Remove the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve and hose assembly from the vehicle.

Remove the bolt.

Remove the tube.

Remove the bolt and disconnect the ground wire.

Disconnect the vacuum hose and remove the vacuum harness.

Disconnect the main engine harness electrical connector.

Raise the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
Remove the bolts and the skid plate, if equipped.
NOTE: The bolt is accessed through the RH fender well.

Remove the transmission filler tube-to-engine block bolt.

NOTE: Right side shown, left side similar.

Disconnect the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) electrical connectors.

NOTE: Left side shown, right side similar.

Remove the nuts and detach the dual converter Y-pipe.

Remove the bolt and detach the wire harness bracket.

Remove the starter. For additional information, refer to Section 303-06 .
Disconnect the A/C clutch electrical connector.
Remove the bolts and position the A/C compressor aside.

Disconnect the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor electrical connector.

Remove the oil filter.

Remove the drain plug and drain the engine oil.
Install the drain plug when finished.

Squeeze the clamps and disconnect the hoses.
Remove the lower radiator hose.

Remove the inspection plate bolts and the inspection plate.

Remove the flexplate-to-torque converter nut access plug.

NOTE: Mark one stud and the flexplate for assembly reference.

Remove the four torque converter nuts.
Rotate the crankshaft, using the crankshaft pulley bolt.

Remove the six lower transmission-to-engine bolts.

NOTE: The caged nut on the frame may break during bolt removal. If necessary, install a new nut.

Remove the bolt from the LH motor mount.

Remove the nut from the RH motor mount.

Lower the vehicle.
Support the transmission, using a block of wood and a floor jack.
NOTE: On 4x4 vehicles, disconnect the transfer case vent hose from the bracket and position aside to gain access to the upper transmission-to-engine bolts.

Remove the two upper transmission-to-engine bolts.
NOTE: The alternator bolts may be used to attach the special tool to the front of the engine. The two bolts used to attach the special tool to the rear of the engine must be shorter than the transmission-to-engine mounting bolts.

Install the special tool.

Using a floor crane, remove the engine from the vehicle.
 

metaldrgn

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 8, 2011
Posts
453
Reaction score
36
Location
somewhere
Let me ask a stupid question...why not leave the engine and just drop the tranny?

That should work too. Maybe just slide the tranny back enough to be able to replace it. I've done a torque converter that way on the firebird I had. Hope you have an impact wrench. If not you need to get creative to stop the flexplate from turning while you loosen/install those bolts. Dont actually use it to torque down the bolts all the way to avoid snapping a bolt or just over torqing them.
 
Last edited:

jdecker

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2010
Posts
61
Reaction score
6
Location
Lawrence, KS
It will fit through the top, but it is totally not necessary - Way easier to take tranny out.
 
OP
OP
G

gt50_90

Member
Joined
Nov 5, 2014
Posts
7
Reaction score
0
Location
paducah , Ky
up date , motor came out with out any major problems, the exhaust manifold nuts were destroyed but they did come off , so I'm going to call it a win. Fly wheel and driver studs have been changed , and it is back in and bolted up , I still have to install the intake and rad . which will happen ,maybe tomorrow, or some time next week :)
thanks for the help guy , I'm also going to do a complete fluid change.
 
OP
OP
G

gt50_90

Member
Joined
Nov 5, 2014
Posts
7
Reaction score
0
Location
paducah , Ky
I also changed the A/C idler pulley and all is well , I had to got to the dealer to get the a/c part for $115 but it's fixed and the wife is happy . now to fix the rear wiper and rear heater box
 

FX4FOUR

Active Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2015
Posts
25
Reaction score
1
Location
florida
100 times easier to drop the tranny !! You can still replace all the seals while you are there, save all the fluids, and not put youself through hell out the top..... 2 pennies
 

Latest posts

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
53,396
Posts
500,653
Members
46,813
Latest member
max357
Top