2008 Expedition EL Refresh

[StephanSloan]

Hi all-
I've enjoyed reading the threads here and would like suggestions on a 2008 Expedition EL 4x4 Limited with 144,000 miles. It has been a great truck for us but it is time for brakes, shocks and anything else that will help tighten up the ride.
I am also considering using the truck for some horse trailer towing. Short distances and less than once per month but the trailer plus horses will likely weigh 5,000-5,800 lbs. I have the towing package with 7 pin connection.
From reviewing the posts I'm interested in advice on the following:
1- Replacing spark plugs (Should I attempt or is this a job for the dealership?)
2- Installing a transmission fluid temp gauge and transmission fluid flush/change.
3- What do you all recommend for brake rotors and pads? Is this kit recommended? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4496547&cc=1440071&jsn=456 I am also looking at https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7575016&cc=1440071&jsn=465 but am not sure the extra $$$ for the new calipers is a big step up?
4- Replace the struts. I am considering https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7344188&cc=1440071&jsn=496 Is there value in the strut/coil combo or would I be ok with front and rear https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1532028&cc=1440071&jsn=515
5- Are any suspension kits worth it? I see https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5734785&cc=1440071&jsn=520
Before reading the posts here I had not considered a tuner or a cold air intake. I'm impressed with the comments about improvements with programs to adjust shift points. Should this be on my list and is there any benefit to the cold air kits if I don't do any other modifications to the throttle body or exhaust?
I recognize that I will quickly spend more $$$ than I will get back in value in the truck but want the capability and to have a good vehicle. Also, new ones are $50+k so that will have to wait a while.
I know I am asking a lot and appreciate any guidance you offer.
Best,
Stephan

 

[Adieu]

Similar interest, recommendations for 09 ssv std length @ 173k anyone?

No trailers but often massive loads of people and stuff, 2,000+ lbs loadout easy near daily

 

[Mikep01]

The power stop brakes, my experience has been positive. HHR's are notorious for warped front rotors. I have put the power stop rotor and pads on there and have not had one issue. When the front pads wear out on my el I plan on doing the full power stop brake kit they have front and rear.
I don't have any info on the stats but look forward to the answers.

 

[Adieu]

Yeah shit the beast needs some serious brake upgrades....weighs a tonne more than my bimmer and has rotors 1/3 the size.... getting tired of automatically reaching for the gear shift when i see brake lights ahead

 

[mjp2]

Hi all-
I've enjoyed reading the threads here and would like suggestions on a 2008 Expedition EL 4x4 Limited with 144,000 miles. It has been a great truck for us but it is time for brakes, shocks and anything else that will help tighten up the ride.
I am also considering using the truck for some horse trailer towing. Short distances and less than once per month but the trailer plus horses will likely weigh 5,000-5,800 lbs. I have the towing package with 7 pin connection.
From reviewing the posts I'm interested in advice on the following:
1- Replacing spark plugs (Should I attempt or is this a job for the dealership?)
2- Installing a transmission fluid temp gauge and transmission fluid flush/change.
3- What do you all recommend for brake rotors and pads? Is this kit recommended? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4496547&cc=1440071&jsn=456 I am also looking at https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7575016&cc=1440071&jsn=465 but am not sure the extra $$$ for the new calipers is a big step up?
4- Replace the struts. I am considering https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7344188&cc=1440071&jsn=496 Is there value in the strut/coil combo or would I be ok with front and rear https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1532028&cc=1440071&jsn=515
5- Are any suspension kits worth it? I see https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5734785&cc=1440071&jsn=520
Before reading the posts here I had not considered a tuner or a cold air intake. I'm impressed with the comments about improvements with programs to adjust shift points. Should this be on my list and is there any benefit to the cold air kits if I don't do any other modifications to the throttle body or exhaust?
I recognize that I will quickly spend more $$$ than I will get back in value in the truck but want the capability and to have a good vehicle. Also, new ones are $50+k so that will have to wait a while.
I know I am asking a lot and appreciate any guidance you offer.
Best,
Stephan

I just went through this on my 2010 with 146k miles.

1. Spark plugs on this engine are easy as long as they're not stuck. Seriously, you can take your time, have a few beers, and still be done in under 2 hours without any swearing. Not worth the $650 the local dealership charges for the job. I went with factory plugs and Accel coils and am happy with the results.

2. The transmission already has a temp sensor built in. Get yourself a ScanGauge II and you'll be able to read all sorts of useful information from the computer, pull codes, and reset your CEL if/when it ever comes on. Definitely do a flush/fill and have the pan dropped and a new screen installed.

3. PowerStop drilled/slotted has done well for me. I ran them on a F250 that saw many heavy towing miles without warping, and have them on my current 2010 EL. I found that EBC pads grab slightly better than PowerStop, but that slight difference is not worth the weekly wheel cleaning. Seriously, they dust more than any pad I've ever seen. Stick with PowerStop and you'll be happy with the results.

4/5. I just did a Rancho QuickLift setup and the improvement in ride and handling is noticeable. Note that Rancho does not recommend the kit for the EL model, but if you swap your factory rear coils to the new shocks you'll be fine. The install is a decent afternoon in the driveway.

Other items:
Contact 5 Star Tuning to wake up your truck and get the transmission responding better to the throttle pedal position. I'm running the "87 Octane Performance/Towing" tune with zero issues. It was a bit cheaper for me because I already had a SCT X3 tuner from said F250 mentioned above so I didn't have to buy a new tuner.

Cooling system flush, definitely replace the thermostat, and consider replacing the water pump. The additional labor is minimal once the system is drained, and it's cheap insurance. Check all the idler pulleys for noise/play while the belt is off and install a new belt during reassembly.

Inspect all ball joints while replacing the suspension. I found a couple of shot boots and ended up swapping out both front UCAs and 1 rear UCA while I was in there.

Listen well to the exhaust manifolds. I heard noise coming from mine around 100k miles and replaced them with SS headers. The job is a laborious nightmare but worth the end result. Upon inspection after pulling them, both of my manifolds had large cracks in them.

Front differential outer seals have a tendency to weep. Check/replace as necessary. Not a bad idea to replace the front and rear differential fluids while you're down there.

I replaced the wheel bearings all around because of noise in one corner. My truck was not well maintained before I got my hands on it and I actually needed a 5-ton puller to get the right rear axle out of the center of the hub due to rust. YMMV

Probably seems like a lot but it'll be a brand new truck when you're done with everything and you'll have a reinvigorated love of the vehicle. Maintenance is always cheaper than repair, and both of those are generally cheaper than new car payments. If the money you spend now gets you another 150k miles, it's a good investment.

 

[StephanSloan]

Thank you folks for the replies-
Accomplished this weekend are:
Rear struts swapped out for Rancho adjustable +3/4 inch
Front Struts changed for Moog factory replacements.
Frozen rotors and Hawk pads all around.
I was very pleased a little surprised to find the upper ball joints and tie rod ends in very good shape all around.
Next is installation and programming of the scan gauge.
Tires and alignment later this week.
Plugs and coils after that and I'm looking for a local shop that can do the coolant and transmission flush.
Best-
Stephan

 

[StephanSloan]

Tires and alignment done now too.
Before and now after the improvements the truck pulls slightly to the right upon initial braking on the highway. It feels like it may be coming from the rear as the pull is not felt in the steering wheel.
I believe the ball joints are tight.
Any thoughts as to what might cause this?

 

[ExpeditionAndy]

Tires and alignment done now too.
Before and now after the improvements the truck pulls slightly to the right upon initial braking on the highway. It feels like it may be coming from the rear as the pull is not felt in the steering wheel.
I believe the ball joints are tight.
Any thoughts as to what might cause this?

You could have a caliper issue where either it isn't fully engaging or its dragging. There are other things that could be wrong too. I had an issue on my 05 where at highway speed it would change lanes when you you were braking hard - pulled to the right. I didn't feel in in the steering wheel. It was one of the front calipers - don't recall which one now. I changed both and new rotors and pads and the problem went away.

 

[Big Brian]

I would agree with Andy on the front calipers

rear brakes typically don't cause a pull like you are describing

one thing you can try is after driving feel each front wheel and see if one is hotter than the other

 

[ExpeditionAndy]

one thing you can try is after driving feel each front wheel and see if one is hotter than the other

Or use one of those infrared thermometers to read the disk and caliper temps.