2008 won't start

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kickstartjoe

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I recently bought a 2008 Expedition XLT former police (SSV) model that needed a variety of things fixed. To get to the current problem, I need to describe things I worked on prior.
It all started when I found the windshield washer pump didn't work. I couldn't see it, but sort of traced it to be next to the battery tray, so I removed the battery. Then I couldn't get the battery tray out because the upper radiator hose appeared to be preventing its removal. So I removed the hose from the radiator, after draining it. It still wouldn't come out so I decided to stop and think about things. After some sort of epiphany, I removed the right headlight and the washer pump was right there.
Well, since I had noticed the coolant was pretty discolored, I decided to flush the system. I ran water through the system till it was pretty clear and then replaced the radiator petcock, and started filling the system with 50/50 antifreeze and distilled water, with the engine running, of course. Then I noticed the petcock was leaking badly. I couldn't tighten it more by hand so decided to just put in a new one. I ordered one over the web ($23 for a plastic thing that must have cost less than 30 cents to make and is apparently not available from anyone except a dealer. My local stealership wanted $38!). Well, it came in and I found it wasn't at all like the one I removed. I then spent two or three hours on the web trying to find the right one, and even went to the local dealer's parts department, with no positive result. All sources gave the part number of the one I had received in the mail.
Figuring maybe the radiator was a special one for police people, or just an oddball aftermarket thing, I decided to just pull it and take it to a radiator shop for assistance. A couple of hours and a half-pint of blood later, I decided the radiator was not supposed to be removed. A nice man in a radiator shop gave me a few used petcocks that were not like the original one (which I had lost somehow), and I found one that screwed in and had a nice o-ring on it that may seal the radiator. The original had no o-ring; it simply had a small round end with rubber on it.
After installing this new petcock and assembling what I had pulled apart in my futile effort to remove the radiator, I found that the engine would not turn over. The dome light doesn't dim when I turn the key, and I do not hear any clicking anywhere. I jiggled the key around, after learning some ignition cylinders wear out, and that didn't help.
I put in my OBD scanner tool, a real basic one, and it said it was unable to communicate with the ECU. I had scanned the system before with no problem.
Also, the child's door lock indicator was on in the message center, something new.
I pulled the start relay and switched it with another one. No fix. Did the same with the Run/start relay with no help.
Let me backtrack for a moment. The last time I ran the car (all of this in the driveway), it would not shift out of park, a pretty common problem. I replaced the brake pedal switch and that didn't help, so I figured it was the brake interlock switch/solenoid on the steering column (the police model has a column shift and no console). I was able to release the shifter using the little button thing you pull under the steering column cover, but I don't recall if I started the car then.
So, somehow during my various mechanical machinations I have done something to prevent the engine from turning over. I guess the next thing is to short across the starter and see what happens. The battery is charged and seems to hold the charge ok. The battery cable connections are clean and tight.
I think the lack of a clicking noise rules out the starter, though, and indicates some sort of electrickery problem, and that's a subject I understand about as much as I understand women.
Any of you sleuths have advice on where I go from here, other than to have the car towed to a shop?
For what it is worth, my considered judgement is that the police department which owned this car thought it was a maintenance-free model.
 
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stamp11127

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Welcome to the site.

You'll need a digital multi meter or test light to troubleshoot the electrical issue.
When you are ready to go let us know.
 
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kickstartjoe

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Here's what I have done today, and the results:
1. With key in Run position, shorted across poles 30 and 87 of the starter relay (#54) holes, and the starter grinds just fine, but the car won't start. So, the starter is ok.
2. Replaced relay. Took all cables off battery and cleaned them well. No help.
3. Battery voltage is 12.07. Acceptable
4. Headlights work fine and do not dim when I turn the key to start.
5. In Run position, there is 10.5 volts to the solenoid connector from the ignition to the solenoid.
6. With the key in Start position, there is 10.5 volts to the solenoid terminal connected to the starter. With key in Run position, there is no voltage to this terminal. Indicates Solenoid is ok.
The voltage drop of about 1.5 volts is curious.
Any ideas? Does the starter require a full 12 volts to work?
 

stamp11127

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Battery voltage is low - 25% state of charge. Wouldn't hurt to charge up to 100%.

What do you mean by the starter grinds - is the engine rotating but not starting?
 
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kickstartjoe

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I bought more scan tool software (FordSys Scan Free), and it won't connect at all. Won't even tell me the vin.
The tool and both software programs work just fine on my 2010 F150.
 

stamp11127

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So I'm going to assume that the problem now is an engine that cranks over but doesn't have fuel or spark.

Check the pcm fuses and relay if used. The pcm will have more than one source of power going to it, first gens have 3 feeds.
 

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