2010 XLT problems

[Adieu]

you could jack up the car and do the rocking test with hands on the 12 & 6 position and 3 & 9 position to see if there's any clicks.... I forgot which one indicates worn ball joints and which indicates worn tie rods but a quick search should answer that

I vaguely recall that folk wisdom yielding up some inconclusive results the one time i tried it....

 

[Habbibie]

I vaguely recall that folk wisdom yielding up some inconclusive results the one time i tried it....

I think it works for when things are deep in the gutter and not something that is still small and slight

 

[Adieu]

Btw, OP, what did you pay at auction for yours? Problems came that way, or popped up later? What mileage and how rough or not was the rest of the vehicle?

 

[Adieu]

I think it works for when things are deep in the gutter and not something that is still small and slight

Ah that mustve been it... i had some thoroughly ***** components and some that were just iffy.

Bent strut and strut mount werent helping either.

 

[Jared]

Ok if this was my truck this is how I would go about it

1. I would take off the plastic panel around the steering column and see if I can pin point the noise inside the cabin, if it's not in the cabin Then I'd take off the front driver side wheel off, have someone steer the car and I would listen closely near the rack and pinion/steering shaft area, by then I ought to hear and be able to close in on the location of the noise.

2. Seeing #2 & #3 in a similar in location (drivers door) very first thing i would check is to do a visual on the wiring harness in the door jam, by pulling off the rubber boot and closely examining for pinched wires, if that seems to be visually correct then for #2 I would take off the door panel and lube the window regulator and tracks with white lithium grease, reconnect the switch with the panel still off and see if attempting to roll the window has any issues as to where it might be sticking at or if I hear any clicks anywhere indicating a location of interest.

3. If wiring harness inspection checks out for previous step then first I'd checks for any blown fuses that strictly control the power locks just to be sure, then if that is ok, like you i would've replaced the switch and see what happens, and finally if that too doesn't help then I'd tackle changing the door lock actuator, though it isn't a common problem on fords, it is very common on foreign auto makers, and the symptoms of a failing door lock actuator is as you described on your first post with the passenger door lock still working fine.

That would be my course of attacking the problems.

I should clarify. All the power locks work fine. The issue is that when I press the "lock" button on the drivers side switch it does nothing. when I press unlock it unlocks all the doors like it should. The passenger side switch works like it should and all the lock actuators are functional. Also, I thoroughly checked all the wiring in the drivers door as well as the fuses and everything looks fine. All the other switches in the drivers door work great. It's only the driver window and the lock button that are giving me problems.

If the squeaking is a worn tie rod would it make enough noise to be noticeable when the vehicle is moving? I don't have a garage to work on it and it's the muddy season here in ND, so it's hard to get it up on a jack. But I'll do it as soon as I can and use my mechanics stethoscope to try and pinpoint the noise.

Adieu, I payed $2600 for it. It's in pretty good shape inside and out. The only exterior problem is some paint peeling on the back hatch but that seems to be a problem with all/most expeditions. I got it so cheap because there was a misfire and they couldn't figure it out. I figured I had plenty of room to put some money into it and fix it.... until I tore apart the engine and found a bad cam phaser (they had only replaced one instead of 2), 3 rocker arms had fallen off in the right cylinder head (hence the misfire), and since they continued to drive it 2 cylinder walls were scored pretty bad. $4500 at the dealer got me a new engine block installed, $300 got me a nice used cylinder head, and the right side cat and 4 O2 sensors cost me roughly $600. basically, everything that could have gone wrong has gone wrong. So now I got about $9500 into it.... way more than I wanted to put into it. Anyways, lesson learned. BTW it's got 156k on the body. Now it runs and drives pretty good except for these 3 issues. At this point I'm trying to sell it for $10500 since I nada booked it for $11,700. But I want to fix these issues before I sell it.

 

[Jared]

The dealer told me that the autostart system was never properly installed so they disabled it. Is it possible that the autostart system is somehow the issue? I believe all the wiring is still in there.. but it was supposed to be disabled.

 

[Habbibie]

$10k+ for a 7 year old truck with an average of 25k driven per year is high mileage, you might get close to that mark if you have fully optioned interior not the typical "police package" with rubber floors and what's not

People buying don't look at "new engine" they look at 150k+ but good luck none the less

 

[Flexpedition]

Number 1: The steering wheel squeaks when I turn it. The noise is coming from the actual steering column and not the engine bay. It also squeaks even if the engine is off.

Number 2: The drivers window does not work. I have replaced the window motor and the switch. I also checked the wiring as far as I could get to it and it's in good condition with no burn marks or bad wires. There is power at the window motor, and all the other windows work fine.

Check the steering column shaft where it goes thru the firewall. There should be a rubber boot. This boot is where a lot of aftermarket wires get shoved thru. And where aftermarket police wires get pulled out. Just a thought.

Driver window regulators often fail. Check again for broken or frayed wires (braided stainless steel wire cables, not electrical wires) that the window motor turns to operate the scissor action of the regulator. Chances are good your original motor and switch were fine and that the regulator is bad. Search this site for proper de-initialize proceedure as well relearn.

As far as the door lock, can't really guess. Does pressing the passenger side switch lock the drivers door? Does the remote control lock the drivers door? Does pressing the 7/8 9/0 on the exterior keypad (if equipped) lock the drivers door? Do you think this might just be a police thing, to keep the driver from accidentally locking himself out? Or to keep a front seat passenger from locking the officer out?

 

[Adieu]

I should clarify. All the power locks work fine. The issue is that when I press the "lock" button on the drivers side switch it does nothing. when I press unlock it unlocks all the doors like it should. The passenger side switch works like it should and all the lock actuators are functional. Also, I thoroughly checked all the wiring in the drivers door as well as the fuses and everything looks fine. All the other switches in the drivers door work great. It's only the driver window and the lock button that are giving me problems.

If the squeaking is a worn tie rod would it make enough noise to be noticeable when the vehicle is moving? I don't have a garage to work on it and it's the muddy season here in ND, so it's hard to get it up on a jack. But I'll do it as soon as I can and use my mechanics stethoscope to try and pinpoint the noise.

Adieu, I payed $2600 for it. It's in pretty good shape inside and out. The only exterior problem is some paint peeling on the back hatch but that seems to be a problem with all/most expeditions. I got it so cheap because there was a misfire and they couldn't figure it out. I figured I had plenty of room to put some money into it and fix it.... until I tore apart the engine and found a bad cam phaser (they had only replaced one instead of 2), 3 rocker arms had fallen off in the right cylinder head (hence the misfire), and since they continued to drive it 2 cylinder walls were scored pretty bad. $4500 at the dealer got me a new engine block installed, $300 got me a nice used cylinder head, and the right side cat and 4 O2 sensors cost me roughly $600. basically, everything that could have gone wrong has gone wrong. So now I got about $9500 into it.... way more than I wanted to put into it. Anyways, lesson learned. BTW it's got 156k on the body. Now it runs and drives pretty good except for these 3 issues. At this point I'm trying to sell it for $10500 since I nada booked it for $11,700. But I want to fix these issues before I sell it.

OK...not envying your price anymore once i read it

Mine cost me $4600, 09 ssv 157kmi bought around last christmas, no real issues