2010 XLT problems

Discussion in '3rd Gen - 2007 - 2017' started by Jared, Mar 20, 2017.


  1. Adieu

    Adieu Full Access Members

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    I vaguely recall that folk wisdom yielding up some inconclusive results the one time i tried it....
     
  2. Habbibie

    Habbibie Legendary Member

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    I think it works for when things are deep in the gutter and not something that is still small and slight
     
  3. Adieu

    Adieu Full Access Members

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    Btw, OP, what did you pay at auction for yours? Problems came that way, or popped up later? What mileage and how rough or not was the rest of the vehicle?
     
  4. Adieu

    Adieu Full Access Members

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    Ah that mustve been it... i had some thoroughly raped components and some that were just iffy.

    Bent strut and strut mount werent helping either.
     
  5. Jared

    Jared Member

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    I should clarify. All the power locks work fine. The issue is that when I press the "lock" button on the drivers side switch it does nothing. when I press unlock it unlocks all the doors like it should. The passenger side switch works like it should and all the lock actuators are functional. Also, I thoroughly checked all the wiring in the drivers door as well as the fuses and everything looks fine. All the other switches in the drivers door work great. It's only the driver window and the lock button that are giving me problems.

    If the squeaking is a worn tie rod would it make enough noise to be noticeable when the vehicle is moving? I don't have a garage to work on it and it's the muddy season here in ND, so it's hard to get it up on a jack. But I'll do it as soon as I can and use my mechanics stethoscope to try and pinpoint the noise.

    Adieu, I payed $2600 for it. It's in pretty good shape inside and out. The only exterior problem is some paint peeling on the back hatch but that seems to be a problem with all/most expeditions. I got it so cheap because there was a misfire and they couldn't figure it out. I figured I had plenty of room to put some money into it and fix it.... until I tore apart the engine and found a bad cam phaser (they had only replaced one instead of 2), 3 rocker arms had fallen off in the right cylinder head (hence the misfire), and since they continued to drive it 2 cylinder walls were scored pretty bad. $4500 at the dealer got me a new engine block installed, $300 got me a nice used cylinder head, and the right side cat and 4 O2 sensors cost me roughly $600. basically, everything that could have gone wrong has gone wrong. So now I got about $9500 into it.... way more than I wanted to put into it. Anyways, lesson learned. BTW it's got 156k on the body. Now it runs and drives pretty good except for these 3 issues. At this point I'm trying to sell it for $10500 since I nada booked it for $11,700. But I want to fix these issues before I sell it.
     
  6. Jared

    Jared Member

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    The dealer told me that the autostart system was never properly installed so they disabled it. Is it possible that the autostart system is somehow the issue? I believe all the wiring is still in there.. but it was supposed to be disabled.
     
  7. Habbibie

    Habbibie Legendary Member

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    $10k+ for a 7 year old truck with an average of 25k driven per year is high mileage, you might get close to that mark if you have fully optioned interior not the typical "police package" with rubber floors and what's not

    People buying don't look at "new engine" they look at 150k+ but good luck none the less
     
  8. Flexpedition

    Flexpedition Full Access Members

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    Check the steering column shaft where it goes thru the firewall. There should be a rubber boot. This boot is where a lot of aftermarket wires get shoved thru. And where aftermarket police wires get pulled out. Just a thought.

    Driver window regulators often fail. Check again for broken or frayed wires (braided stainless steel wire cables, not electrical wires) that the window motor turns to operate the scissor action of the regulator. Chances are good your original motor and switch were fine and that the regulator is bad. Search this site for proper de-initialize proceedure as well relearn.

    As far as the door lock, can't really guess. Does pressing the passenger side switch lock the drivers door? Does the remote control lock the drivers door? Does pressing the 7/8 9/0 on the exterior keypad (if equipped) lock the drivers door? Do you think this might just be a police thing, to keep the driver from accidentally locking himself out? Or to keep a front seat passenger from locking the officer out?
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2017
  9. Adieu

    Adieu Full Access Members

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    OK...not envying your price anymore once i read it

    Mine cost me $4600, 09 ssv 157kmi bought around last christmas, no real issues
     

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