2012 - Time for a transmission

[Matticus]

I bought a 2012 EL 4x4 from my friend who is a wholesaler. He got it at auction pretty cheap ($4200). It's got high mileage (229,000) and, as expected, has needed a little love but otherwise seems to be a killer deal. The transmission is on the way out so I'm going to swap it with a low mileage used unit out of a junker.

While doing this, does anyone have any recommendations of what to do "while I'm in there"? Any thing that's good to replace/fix while the tranny is out? Or, if you've got some pointers on what to watch out for that will make the swap easier, I'm all ears

 

[deweysmith]

Replace the oxygen sensors. They're cheapish and they get slower as they age, but not bad enough to set a code. I did mine and improved my fuel mileage by like 15%. The one on the left is really hard to bust out, the 4x4 is in the way. It can be done with a good torch and water but it's easier with a long breaker bar and no front driveshaft in the way.

I have a 2012 EL as well, and I have an alldatadiy.com subscription. I can message you the shop procedure for transmission replacement, if you like.

 

[Matticus]

Replace the oxygen sensors. They're cheapish and they get slower as they age, but not bad enough to set a code. I did mine and improved my fuel mileage by like 15%. The one on the left is really hard to bust out, the 4x4 is in the way. It can be done with a good torch and water but it's easier with a long breaker bar and no front driveshaft in the way.

I have a 2012 EL as well, and I have an alldatadiy.com subscription. I can message you the shop procedure for transmission replacement, if you like.

deweysmith - that would be a awesome. Please do send that. Thanks for the tip on the 02 sensors.

 

[Flexpedition]

What symptoms have lead to the conclusion that the transmission is headed south? Delayed shifts, vibration, noise, etc?

 

[Matticus]

I noticed that the transmission would shift hard/lunge a little when first starting it up and driving it. It goes away within a minute of driving. But then I also noticed some odd behavior that was sort of in between a slip and a "hunting for the right gear" type of thing at around 5-10 mph. The fluid was fairly dark also. So, I took it in to a shop to see what they thought and if they thought of it and if it would be worth flushing it or doing any other maintenance. They confirmed my suspicion that it was, indeed, slipping and not working right. They couldn't tell if it was the clutches or the torque converter, but with the amount of metal they found in the fluid, they said they wouldn't recommend putting any money into it and definitely not flushing it.

Bottom line, the transmission may go for a while yet, but it's essentially worn out. A ~30k tranny is only about $1000ish, so I'll still be way ahead on my purchase. Heck, I think if I did a brand new long block I'd still be ahead according to KBB and what I see similar vehicles selling for around here. Plus, I still haven't sold my 03 expy that we were replacing yet, so I have a backup vehicle in case the transmission job takes a little longer than I expect.

On a side note, shifting into 4 low is iffy. The few times I screwed around with it, it wouldn't go into 4low and flashes "check 4x4". Then, I got it into 4low but had a hard time getting it out again. The shop said they saw a code related to that. Something about a communications error with a plate or something. If you've got a lead on a thread for this or know what it might be, I'd love some info on that. Otherwise, I'll hit the googles.

 

[deweysmith]

That sounds like the actuator on the transfer case is worn out. If you can get the actual diagnostic code, ALLDATA will have a pinpoint procedure to prove it out.

 

[JExpedition07]

I noticed that the transmission would shift hard/lunge a little when first starting it up and driving it. It goes away within a minute of driving. But then I also noticed some odd behavior that was sort of in between a slip and a "hunting for the right gear" type of thing at around 5-10 mph. The fluid was fairly dark also. So, I took it in to a shop to see what they thought and if they thought of it and if it would be worth flushing it or doing any other maintenance. They confirmed my suspicion that it was, indeed, slipping and not working right. They couldn't tell if it was the clutches or the torque converter, but with the amount of metal they found in the fluid, they said they wouldn't recommend putting any money into it and definitely not flushing it.

Bottom line, the transmission may go for a while yet, but it's essentially worn out. A ~30k tranny is only about $1000ish, so I'll still be way ahead on my purchase. Heck, I think if I did a brand new long block I'd still be ahead according to KBB and what I see similar vehicles selling for around here. Plus, I still haven't sold my 03 expy that we were replacing yet, so I have a backup vehicle in case the transmission job takes a little longer than I expect.

On a side note, shifting into 4 low is iffy. The few times I screwed around with it, it wouldn't go into 4low and flashes "check 4x4". Then, I got it into 4low but had a hard time getting it out again. The shop said they saw a code related to that. Something about a communications error with a plate or something. If you've got a lead on a thread for this or know what it might be, I'd love some info on that. Otherwise, I'll hit the googles.

Sorry to hear on the tranny. Mine was shifting odd sometimes but when we dropped the pan the fluid was clean and no metal shavings were found. It was just a bit dirty. We changed the fluid with Mercon SP and swapped the filter and it shifts better. The odd behavior on cold mornings is normal, ease the gas. I just drove my dads 2016 F-250 this morning which was cold and it exhibited the same behavior, it’s only got 20,000 miles on it. Kind of jumped/shifted hard through gears. When Tranny fluid is ice cold the pressures aren’t up to par like they are when warm.

 

[Matticus]

Just came across another question. When shopping for a used transmission, it appears there are 3 different types:

ID CL1P-7000-BA (41/100)
ID CL1P-7000-BB (41/100)
ID CL1P-7000-bolt circle (41/100)

The place I'm probably going to order from (automotix.com) claims they will all fit. They didn't know what the difference was and suspected it may just be different years (2012, 13, etc) What's the difference? I'm not finding any info on these numbers. Per deweysmith's suggestion, I'm going to get setup with ALLDATA for my vehicle when I get a sec, so I may peruse that to see if it sheds any light on the matter. But if someone knows, bestow your knowledge on me

 

[deweysmith]

The dealer would be the best place for that. It looks like the build date and 2WD/4WD has a little bit to do with it, but I can't tell you which one is which. ALLDATA says CL1Z-7000-B which isn't really helpful, parts.ford.com says 7000, but we knew that, that's the "part number" for "Automatic Transmission," the prefix identifies the vehicle and the end identifies revisions.

Also, a reman straight from Ford (with warranty, etc) is only $3,200. For your consideration.

 

[Tdh777]

I would verify with dealer but the part numbers look like a supercession chain. Similar to the ba, aa. post-fix on the coil packs. They most likely changed minor things and gave it a new number.