4 months of ownership...'17 Expy

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NevadaGeo

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I purchased the 8 year 100,000 mile warranty because I intend to keep this Expedition at least 10 years. I doubt that I'll hit the 100,000 mile mark by then because I don't drive that many miles anymore but I might. If just one running board motor goes out out of warranty that a $2600 repair bill and running board motors have not been the most reliable. That'll almost cover the cost of the warranty. I bought the Ford with the disappearing deductible because I only take my vehicles back to the dealership. As long as I go to my dealer there is no deductible. If we happen to be on a trip and had a warranty repair, we would only pay $100 deductible (this is after the regular 36,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty and the 50,000 mile drive train warranty have expired.

The good thing is I can cancel it any time and get a refund for the unused portion. If I sell the truck, I get a refund for the unused portion.[/QUOTE]
That is what I did with the extended warranty on the F-150. Got back about $350 and traded it in at 75,000 miles. So it does work out if you go this route.
 

ManUpOrShutUp

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[QUOTE="ManUpOrShutUp, post: 257369,

On the flip side, I actually know what the dealer paid for my '11 EL as I had been looking at that exact truck on Craigslist before the owner decided to trade it in. I realized it was the same truck when I typed the VIN into my phone and it auto-completed. :p

Holy Crap! What's the chances of THAT happening! Amazing stuff happens if we are paying attention!

jeff[/QUOTE]

Yeah it was pretty crazy. I found it on Craigslist posted by a used car salesman who had posted it on behalf of a friend (he was doing it for a cut of the profits). The ask was way too high though and he wasn't moving much after several emails. About 2 weeks later I found this truck at a new car dealer for $4k less than the truck in the Craigslist ad. I go to type the number in my phone to run the Carfax etc and it auto-completes. I'm thinking "wtf? noooo ..." Then I checked my email from the Craigslist guy and the VIN is the same. Apparently, the owner had been driving by the dealership, saw a new Cherokee and decided to trade it on the spot. The used car salesman was pissed that he traded it. :p
 

powerboatr

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Hey everyone, I will always admit when i am wrong or at least mis type :eek:
the taking off for a 6 months or so to spend time with the light of my life was started oct 2006, so far i have not felt the need to return to the rat race :D

i did MIS TYPE in my remarks about traction control, roll control and stability control.
the button will dis-engage the entire system at speeds below 35 when selected or when in 4LO. 4H it will still engage, and can control up to 3 wheels, as in braking to control spin, at or below 35 mph
the TRACTION control can remain "toned" down but not off above 35 mph.
the computer will raise the threshold of involvement, as in if your above 35mph it will take more loss of traction to have the computer engage braking on a particular set of wheels or wheel to reduce loss of traction, unless in 4LO.
the system is intensively complicated as you can imagine
but i did mis type ans stated all systems re-engage above 35 mph, this was incorrect
clear as mud right

in 4AUTO, the system behaves as 2H, except it will also engage front drive and is torque based to engage, as in mechanically, not through a set of viscous clutches or magnets.
in 4 auto the traction, roll and stability is at its most ALERT and will do more to stop loss of traction, slide (yaw) and roll over.
I had a long talk with a trw drive-train engineer
 

NevadaGeo

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In my 2017 Owners Manual, pgs. 178-179, there is a table that describes what actions to take to control Traction Control. On pg. 179 it shows that at above 35 mph, if you press and hold the TC button for longer that 5 seconds, the system is disabled. However, there is reference under the table that it may become enabled under "higher entry thresholds", so even in the OM, it is clear a mud.

Mud is good. Keeps us happy as hogs on a hot day.

Overall, this is a great and well-engineered system that is very valuable for what it was designed for.
 
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jeff kushner

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It's all good Powerboater.....no one here get's "offended" but it's cool that you did come back to try to clarify....as Andy calls it...the mud of the OM.

My "experiment" is really complete anyway. I had been told that there is a 1mpg savings by turning off the TC and since it's 6am here, making sense of the engagement/disengagement subroutine is just a bit too heavy to read this early...so in my mind, if I press the button and the warning lights comes on and stays on, it's off<LOL>....whether it actually is not is a different matter....but anyway.....I am seeing a TINY MPG savings but in all honesty, I believe that it's just the difference in my driving.

As human beings, I believe it's nearly impossible for us to remain totally and 100% objective when doing any type of mpg experiment, we will always tend to tailor our driving even the smallest amount to reach the desired or suggested outcome. It doesn't necessarily happen at first but here I'm 4 days into the experiment and definitely noticed that I'm driving biased towards better mileage which is not how I normally drive.......gently getting into high gear asap, not ever accelerating quickly and that just isn't "normal driving" for me....so I'm going to call it today and say that I did not notice any appreciable difference between TC on or off.

jeff
 

NevadaGeo

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It's all good Powerboater.....no one here get's "offended" but it's cool that you did come back to try to clarify....as Andy calls it...the mud of the OM.

My "experiment" is really complete anyway. I had been told that there is a 1mpg savings by turning off the TC and since it's 6am here, making sense of the engagement/disengagement subroutine is just a bit too heavy to read this early...so in my mind, if I press the button and the warning lights comes on and stays on, it's off<LOL>....whether it actually is not is a different matter....but anyway.....I am seeing a TINY MPG savings but in all honesty, I believe that it's just the difference in my driving.

As human beings, I believe it's nearly impossible for us to remain totally and 100% objective when doing any type of mpg experiment, we will always tend to tailor our driving even the smallest amount to reach the desired or suggested outcome. It doesn't necessarily happen at first but here I'm 4 days into the experiment and definitely noticed that I'm driving biased towards better mileage which is not how I normally drive.......gently getting into high gear asap, not ever accelerating quickly and that just isn't "normal driving" for me....so I'm going to call it today and say that I did not notice any appreciable difference between TC on or off.

jeff

The TC shouldn't activate the breaking routine unless there is slippage realized by the computer in one of the wheels. Driving on a paved road with no ice or water should be ideal conditions IMHO. So how would the TC activate enough to make a difference in MPG in ideal conditions anyway??

Yes it is good to kick things around. Good to have free thought on any forum. This is what makes America great!!
 

powerboatr

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ah the HUMAN interface, heheheeee
i find if i have the instant mpg scale on the display, i tend to do more conservative effort with the right foot, almost to an obsession, so i hide it and use the tach display.
and when i do watch the mpg display i tend to gain a few tenths, and find my self coasting and anticipating stops or slow downs.

i agree the system is cool, it had in my 150 stopped a few loss of traction and control events on slick roads.
 

ExpeditionAndy

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We are taking our first trip in June. We are driving out to PA to visit our parents and friends. That'll put 1200-1500 miles on it. I just turned 350 miles today. :) I've had it a little over a month now. I am really enjoying the acceleration off the entrance ramps onto the highway.
 
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