4r75w solenoid testing

[mdjeterva]

Does anybody have the ohm values for testing the EPC and shift solenoids? It's the only other thing I can think of that I can check.

It jumped out of OD and freespun for a few seconds then went into drive, started shifting strangely until I got it home. Fortunately only a few miles. Reverse is fine. Checked the fluid, level was good and doesn't smell burnt. I got a new filter and gaskets and pulled the pan and valve body, no broken snap rings or anything else unusual. It has 160k on the truck, but a Jasper reman transmission that went in at 100k, of course it's out of warranty now.

 

[mdjeterva]

I received the new solenoids today. Ohm values below.
EPC-4.0 ohms
Dual Shift - starting from the pin farthest from the body- 1 to 2 is 49 ohms, 2 to 3 is 25 ohms and 1 to 3 is 24.5 ohms, none are ground.
TCC is 13.5 ohms

 

[metaldrgn]

EPC ohm check is unreliable. If it's bad it may still look good on an ohms test. If there's a question I would replace it, but before you do that, did you get any codes?

Please describe more in detail how it was shifting strangely.

 

[mdjeterva]

It's hosed, as above I was driving down the interstate and it went out of OD over revved for a few seconds and dropped into drive. It had never happened before and it was a light load situation, just rolling down the interstate on flat terrain. I was only a couple of miles from the house but had to go through 20 or so stop light/stop signs and it felt like it was "hunting" for the correct gear, but didn't seem to be slipping. Checked the fluid as soon as I got home and it was correct, it had been changed about 30k before and new filter installed.

After doing some research on here and the F150 forum, I ordered the parts needed to do a valve body rebuild, new solenoids and new actuators/springs and a new seperator plate. The hope was it was one of the common broken snap ring problems or cracked separator plate, and since I was going to be in there anyway, might as well replace the wear parts while I'm in there.

For background it has 160k on the engine, but the trans is a Jasper reman that was put in at 100k, right before I bought it, receipt was in the console. It has the 3.73 rear and the factory towing package with small aux cooler. It's going to get a cooler upgrade and remote filter when it gets back from the shop.

Dropped the pan and didn't see anything obvious wrong, all the big snap rings were intact, so I pulled the valve body and checked the plate and flushed the body, it was pretty clean with no debris blocking the galleries and the plate turned out to have the 2-3 reinforcement part already installed and it was not cracked and the gaskets looked good.

Put it all back together and it's still doing the same thing and finally started throwing a 0731 and 0732 code with the flashing O/D light under load. It's at the local trans shop now, should find out how bad it is by Tuesday.

 

[mdjeterva]

Turns out the pump was damaged according to the shop, complete rebuild was done and it's running fine.
Installed a Hayden 679 in series with the original cooler, tapped the line closest to the center of the SUV, or right side looking down from the top. Temps run about 140 on Torque Pro. You can get it in there without taking off the front bumper cover ands grill if you work at it. Working on installing a remote filter, but every time I connect it, it starts heating up to 180, thought I might have it plumbed backwards, but I switched the lines and it does the same thing. I should probably be using a NAPA 1622 or a Wix 51622, but I just stuck a Motorcraft FL-1 on it for now since I had a couple in the shop, I see a lot of them using Fram PH8A, and that's what I used to use on my Explorer remote filter and never had any problem with it. Could the Motorcraft filter have too low of a flow rate?

 

[Mjj447808]

I received the new solenoids today. Ohm values below.
EPC-4.0 ohms
Dual Shift - starting from the pin farthest from the body- 1 to 2 is 49 ohms, 2 to 3 is 25 ohms and 1 to 3 is 24.5 ohms, none are ground.
TCC is 13.5 ohms

What dose it mean if all the reading I’m getting is higher then it is supposed to be I’m getting for dual shift solenoid pin 1 to 2 is 50.9 ohms and 2 to 3 is 25.5 ohms and 1 to 3 is 25.5 ohms also the
Tcc solenoid is reading 13.5 ohms any help would be great I’m debating weather or not to order new solenoids or order a remanufactured complete valve body assembly for a 2005 Ford Expedition 5.4l v8 with 4r75w transmission or is it internal issues and if I should bring it to the transmission repair shop.
I’m pulling up dtc codes p1744 , p0732 and p0581 on the vehicle any help please and thank you