98 EB motor is gone. Wanting to do motor swap! Any suggestions. Looking to make more power.

[SHAGGYS EXPO]

My 98 EB motor has finally gave up. And we wanna keep the truck still. But wanna upgrade the motor. Have around $8500 to invest in an overhaul. And I could really use some inspiration from anyone. Have considered finding an svt and trying to go that route.

 

[1955moose]

You must love that SUV. Depending on the miles and condition of other components, you may want to continue, or consider a newer vehicle. These vehicles are only worth about $3,000 to $3,500 in the best of condition. If your going to go over everything, and have lots of time/energy go for it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MISTERgadget]

http://www.expeditionforum.com/posts/253651/

 

[Snag]

Shaggy,
A good read as posted above. I looked at your post when you posted and been thinking about the reply. Like Moose says a very expensive project but certainly something we have all done through our life, hell I still do.
This Modular engine like most engines respond to upgrades and it has the basic bones to be very strong. The bottom end is almost bullet proof, if your oil pump don't die. I would recommend finding a rebuilder shop who can do performance builds. You living in NC is the NASCAR hot rod capital of the World so would imagine a lot of performance shops able to build it for you. Do a little research about the shops and give them your expectations, what you want the end result to be. They can give you ideas of how to get there, and give you pricing for what it will cost. Also I would look into your running gear axle ratios, these also impact the outcome of your build. And remember TORQUE is what you want, not horse power. Torque pushes the rig and makes it a lot more fun to drive and also better off-road if you wheel.
Good luck, let us know what you do and how it turns out
Gary

 

[Seven11]

1. go to a junkyard and get a engine from there.

2. Get another used SUV.

 

[1997SCEBFEX]

mine spit a plug at 14 (2011) years. my local big blue oval referred me to a local builder, in Virginia at the time, that did all fleet/modular vehicles. complete rebuild. came with a 3 year/36K warranty. still motoring today. check around and compare your options as mentioned above.

 

[dschallmo98expo]

Well I put a 2001 new 5.4l and then upgraded it with a stick lightning supercharger. I love the truck. Would never trade it in

 

[SHAGGYS EXPO]

Thank you all for the advice. And yes Moose the truck has a lot of sentimental value to myself and my wife. Bought from her dad for $1.00 when I was down on my luck.

Snag-
Yeah I hadn't even thought about the shops. I have a buddy that owns a machine shop that Actually owes me a favor I had actually totally forgotten about. Stretched out a 55' Chevy front end for him by 18". Been a few years. Yeah I have been doing a lot of research. Still haven't locked my decision yet. Have been researching either going with supercharger or pro charger. Do not know a lot about either. But I can figure it out with time. Just gotta decide what way to go. Any suggestions on that topic?

And any suggestions on what would be a good rear axle ratio to be working for. Or heck even just the innards to buy straight up.

Have a lot of math to learn about doing this. Have welded and fabricated a many a vehicle. But not done any motor work myself.

 

[dschallmo98expo]

I also put 9" rear end with 373 posi also a 4r100 tranny and I love the acceleration off the line. also great for towing. However so you don't loose so much gas milage, I would concider 355 gears.

 

[drewactual]

re: 3.55 for mileage-

it's been my experience pushing truck in the same weight class as an eXp that lower gears (higher numerically) actually increase mileage and depending on the torque curve- and that is the sum of the whole package from cam profile/actual tq curve, transmission ratio's, differential ratio's, and overall tire height.

the EPA and the makers rarely use real world miles to decide- they use RPM's, speed, and ratio's which knowing two (and there being no surprises such as slipping transmission) will give you the third with mathematical certainty. problem with the formula: it assumes perfect stioch air-to-fuel ratio, which doesn't hold steady no matter how fast STFT's alter via scripts. shorthand: I'd rather run 4.56:1 gear ratio's in the axle's and hold a really high vacuum signal @ 1900 RPM than I would run 1500rpm and be lugging the engine, especially when the first grade you encounter causes the transmission to drop a gear and race the engine...

more to the point, though: the load on the engine, through the magic of leverage, is greatly reduced with lower gears where you need it the most- off the line... and... it holds a steady RPM/speed with a higher vacuum signal, meaning it's working hella less. all = better mileage... I wager these eXp's will benefit from as much as 4.56's (and a locking TC with equiv of OD gear) and mileage would increase as opposed to lugging along with 3.31's or 355's...

caveat- my super duty has 3.73's- but the dang thing farts spare torque, so the argument above is dang nearly negated (well, except for teh 37's it rolls).