If it were guts "rattling", you would have CEL and code. Your vehicle would run rough and lose power. Your "in law" may be wrong guy to have working on your car. The converters have an outer shell. and a heat deflector attached to bottom of floor. My outer shell came loose. It sounded like a buzz or golf ball in my exhaust. My mechanic tightened it down, with a oversized hose clamp.
Any good After market catalytic converters ?
- Thread starter Chris77
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Now that sounds about right
Wolf
Active Member
I had a "rattle" that sounded like rod knock from the passenger side Cat for 6 months without any codes and no loss in power. It finally broke loose enough to plug the rear cat. So it's not a bogus theory that there's a busted cat...
I disagree. At some point you dumped raw, unburned fuel into exhaust. Your CEL should been activated and was ignored. Driving under misfire condition is most common. A second CEL/code PO420/421(cat below 97% threshold), would of been triggered as cat began to fail. That to, would of been ignored until Cat completely is destroyed. The rear Cat is below front seats. It would not sound like a "rod knock". There is a actual Ford TSB about using a oversize hose clamp, to tighten down heat shields.
Last edited:
Wolf
Active Member
Well, it’s your perogative to disagree, but I stated the facts on what my experience with this specific issue—so I agree with your “should have been activated” statement since it allows room for “didn’t,” and interject the following scenario:
On my rig, when running at a certain range of RPM, and most of the time at idle, I had a knocking sound. It sounded like a loose heat shield, lower rod knock or cam phasers (YouTube them). Three separate mechanics listened to the noise and pulled No error codes from the computer. One sited lower rod knock, the second sited Cam Phasers, and the third, an old Ford mechanic put it on a lift and bet me $50 that it was the front passenger CAT. I paid $50, as that was the culprit. 6 month’s later the front passenger CAT blew chunks into the rear CAT and that’s when the CEL finally kicked on and the truck lost power and died.
It’ll be interesting to see what the OP discovers when he gets under the truck
On my rig, when running at a certain range of RPM, and most of the time at idle, I had a knocking sound. It sounded like a loose heat shield, lower rod knock or cam phasers (YouTube them). Three separate mechanics listened to the noise and pulled No error codes from the computer. One sited lower rod knock, the second sited Cam Phasers, and the third, an old Ford mechanic put it on a lift and bet me $50 that it was the front passenger CAT. I paid $50, as that was the culprit. 6 month’s later the front passenger CAT blew chunks into the rear CAT and that’s when the CEL finally kicked on and the truck lost power and died.
It’ll be interesting to see what the OP discovers when he gets under the truck
I’ve just purchased truck a month with 90,000 on it. The only thing I have noticed is cylinder #3 had a plug saver kit. Dnt know if I have lost power because truck is new to me. Assuming it might have something to do with cat going bad
Well wolf I’m going to give bands a shot nothing to lose. As far as sounds I do have what sounds like almost like a rod knock but it’s a different sound under the engine than the rattling and metal tapping sound I guess on cat. Thx for your input I guys I’ll let you know in a few days what happens
Jarheadmatt
Member
Most companies will not ship to CA due to our CARB laws... even though they say carb compliant. I had them shipped to a friend and shipped to me. But I went with the straight and 45* and was able to drop the exhaust and weld them in. In order to be 100% legit, you need to drop about $4k on ford oem cats.
