EastCoast4x4
Member
So my 99 expy is having some serious rot issues on the rockers, and was wondering if anyone knows of anywhere to get replacement ones that I can weld in. Any help would be much appreciated!
Anyone done Rocker Panel replacement?
- Thread starter EastCoast4x4
- Start date
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tonydiv
technical advisor
LMC Truck seems to have just about every available body component. I don't have my catalog in front of me, but that may be a good place to start.
wink
Member
here's what i have learned in replacing this part,
start it by cutting away the sloped part of the original rocker. the best tool for this purpose is a grinder with a cutting disc. such a tool will set you back about $50. Note that the rocker is spot welded to the rest of the car at locations A and B. After cutting away the sloped part you will have the upper and lower parts of the rocker with the spot welds still attached to the rest of the car.
In order to provide a solid base for the new welds you need to grind away all of the remaining rocker at location A. Be careful not to cut into the outrigger. We need it to remain in place but with a good shiny surface. The success of your welding depends on how clean the surfaces are.
Note: Later I found out that cutting out spot-welds is more easily done using a special spot-weld drill bit. Ask your FLAPS for this tool.
The upper part of the old rocker needs to be cut away too but not entirely. It depends on your new rocker. If the new rocker has a U shaped rubber seal channel that clicks into the old one you can leave that part of the old rocker in place. If it does not fit (like mine) you will have to remove the channel for the seal as well. I left the uppermost horizontal strip in place (the black part in fig 3). The old seal channel has a small ridge that keeps the seal in place. I left that part of the old rocker as I wanted to keep this ridge which was not present in the new one.
Prepare a new rocker
You need to drill a series of small (4 mm) holes along the lower part of the new rocker. We will use these holes to simulate spot-welds (they are called 'plug-welds') using our MIG welder. Along the upper lip we need to make small triangular cutouts. Do not drill holes here because you will probably not be able to get at them with your welder. The nozzle is to wide to fit into the seal channel. However you can just get at the these cutouts and weld against the remainder of the old rocker (location B in fig 3).
do the welding
Here is a detailed description of the welding technique. Clamp the rocker firmly to the metal of the outrigger.
You may have to use additional clamps to get it accurately into place. Do not start welding until you are absolutely satisfied that the rocker is in the correct position. After you make the first weld you cannot change it anymore!
Position the nozzle of the welder exactly over the middle of the hole. Press the feed button for a few seconds. The exact time depends on your welder and welding skills.
That's why you need to practice before you start on your actual car. While welding you want to hold the nozzle at a right angle to the metal. The idea is to fill the hole entirely. If you have not filled it completely at the first attempt you can make a second weld at the same spot.
This is how the welds should look like. Note the one on the right which looks very good. The metal has flowed very well and filled up the entire hole. The one on the left is not done quite so well.
Start with the lowest voltage or current setting of your welder. A high setting will most likely burn big holes in the rocker and outrigger. That's not what we want.
finishing touch.
found this steps prrocedure when i am looking for a south carolina auto repair shops in google. hope that this help.
start it by cutting away the sloped part of the original rocker. the best tool for this purpose is a grinder with a cutting disc. such a tool will set you back about $50. Note that the rocker is spot welded to the rest of the car at locations A and B. After cutting away the sloped part you will have the upper and lower parts of the rocker with the spot welds still attached to the rest of the car.
In order to provide a solid base for the new welds you need to grind away all of the remaining rocker at location A. Be careful not to cut into the outrigger. We need it to remain in place but with a good shiny surface. The success of your welding depends on how clean the surfaces are.
Note: Later I found out that cutting out spot-welds is more easily done using a special spot-weld drill bit. Ask your FLAPS for this tool.
The upper part of the old rocker needs to be cut away too but not entirely. It depends on your new rocker. If the new rocker has a U shaped rubber seal channel that clicks into the old one you can leave that part of the old rocker in place. If it does not fit (like mine) you will have to remove the channel for the seal as well. I left the uppermost horizontal strip in place (the black part in fig 3). The old seal channel has a small ridge that keeps the seal in place. I left that part of the old rocker as I wanted to keep this ridge which was not present in the new one.
Prepare a new rocker
You need to drill a series of small (4 mm) holes along the lower part of the new rocker. We will use these holes to simulate spot-welds (they are called 'plug-welds') using our MIG welder. Along the upper lip we need to make small triangular cutouts. Do not drill holes here because you will probably not be able to get at them with your welder. The nozzle is to wide to fit into the seal channel. However you can just get at the these cutouts and weld against the remainder of the old rocker (location B in fig 3).
do the welding
Here is a detailed description of the welding technique. Clamp the rocker firmly to the metal of the outrigger.
You may have to use additional clamps to get it accurately into place. Do not start welding until you are absolutely satisfied that the rocker is in the correct position. After you make the first weld you cannot change it anymore!
Position the nozzle of the welder exactly over the middle of the hole. Press the feed button for a few seconds. The exact time depends on your welder and welding skills.
That's why you need to practice before you start on your actual car. While welding you want to hold the nozzle at a right angle to the metal. The idea is to fill the hole entirely. If you have not filled it completely at the first attempt you can make a second weld at the same spot.
This is how the welds should look like. Note the one on the right which looks very good. The metal has flowed very well and filled up the entire hole. The one on the left is not done quite so well.
Start with the lowest voltage or current setting of your welder. A high setting will most likely burn big holes in the rocker and outrigger. That's not what we want.
finishing touch.
found this steps prrocedure when i am looking for a south carolina auto repair shops in google. hope that this help.
Last edited:
Remo
Full Access Members
No one makes replacement rocker panels for the first gen trucks. You have to buy panels for an f150 supercrew and trim part of the rear off to make it fit.
Jay87LX
Full Access Members
Link to said replacements?
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