Audio help

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1955moose

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Your sub amp is 20 watts more than the one in my Mach system. If the amp for the sub has speaker connections for bridging, go for it. It should give you 110 watts into the single sub. I was trying to get into Crutchfield but they were too busy. Trying to find out about your factory amp. Call them, their about the most knowledgeable stereo guys I've dealt with. Depending on the size of the 4 channel amp you want to install, you might not be able to fit in stock location below stereo. You might want to see how your new door speakers sound before ditching the ford amp. The biggest weak link are front door speakers. You've got that upgraded with your separates.


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USMCBuckWild

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Your sub amp is 20 watts more than the one in my Mach system. If the amp for the sub has speaker connections for bridging, go for it. It should give you 110 watts into the single sub. I was trying to get into Crutchfield but they were too busy. Trying to find out about your factory amp. Call them, their about the most knowledgeable stereo guys I've dealt with. Depending on the size of the 4 channel amp you want to install, you might not be able to fit in stock location below stereo. You might want to see how your new door speakers sound before ditching the ford amp. The biggest weak link are front door speakers. You've got that upgraded with your separates.


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The little 4x100 amp is 5" x 5" x 1 1/2".
Should have no issue sneaking it in as there appears to be plenty if space. I do plan on adding a small 12v fan just to keep air moving in there, I have done this with EVERY amp I have ever installed. Better safe than sorry.
 
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USMCBuckWild

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UPDATE:

All Polk door speakers installed (minus the dynomat since it hadn't arrived in time) and they sound AWESOME! I simply hot glued the tweeter in place of the stock ones. Allowed me to orient them a little more for better sound staging.

Sub box was extensively modified and reinforced to accept the slim/shallow mount 12" Pioneer sub. I used the last of the dynomat I had on hand to help with that. Packed the box with some hollowfill as well. Utilized the stock amp, bridged (positive from one channel and negative from the other) and added a small 1" fan I had hanging around.

The stock amp will definately push bridged. Albeit it is only around 100 watts bridged, but it works. Now we know that a single voice coil 2 ohm sub can be pushed efficiently with the stock amp. Keeps things simple. I recommend a high efficiency 2 ohm svc 8" sub in the stock enclosure packed with hollowfill (pillow stuffing) and reinforced with sound dampener while running the stock amp bridged.

I plan on running this for a while until my health improves and I can make a custom fiberglass mold enclosure to house the sub and a more powerful amp.
 

1955moose

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The fan is always a good idea. My McIntosh amps had one built in, those amps last forever. Believe it or not regular r11 or r19 home insulation is a great sound deadening for woofer boxes. Dynomat gets expensive. Be sure to use a rubber gasket where woofer mounts to box. You should be able to buy one at any shop that sells speakers. The tighter the seal,the better the sound.


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USMCBuckWild

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My buddy had a McIntosh back inthe day, absolutely outstanding power with a substantial pricetag. The sub has a rubber gasket that wraps around and under. Sealed very well.

The 12 definately has lower tone to it than the stock 8, but certainly requires more power to be substantial. We'll see what we do in the future.
 

1955moose

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Most subs even an efficient one like pioneer do require at least a good clean 100watts or more. I used to run an eminence 12 inch Sub years back, and I bridged my Alpine 60 watt amp to 120, it sounded pretty decent.


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USMCBuckWild

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Yup. In my opinion 12s are the best sub, deeper bass than 8 or 10, hit as hard as a 10 if properly setup.

I do have an old school US Amps 100 that will eventually run this 12. That amp is .5 ohm stable, some people have run them successfully at .25 ohm. If I remember correctly that amp will push right around 400 watts bridged at 2 ohms (1 ohm per channel). That should make that 12 thump like a champ. Going to have to make sure I reinforce that fiberglass box! Hahaha

I once used the same single US Amp to run four 12s in a Toyota pick up. Ran that for almost 3 years daily and never had an issue. That was the greatest back massager ever made!!
 

1955moose

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Your Pioneer sub is only good up to 200 watts. You'll probably have to get a higher watt replacement sub later on, but that's half the fun of it. Seeing what the new speaker sounds like with your old tunes, and a six pack of your favorite suds, to enjoy it with. That's how I've always enjoyed it at least. Just keep that jumper box or extra jumper battery . They always go dead, and nobody wants to jumpstart these days. My extra jumpstart battery and cables, have saved my butt in too many cases. Enjoy!


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USMCBuckWild

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Your Pioneer sub is only good up to 200 watts. You'll probably have to get a higher watt replacement sub later on, but that's half the fun of it. Seeing what the new speaker sounds like with your old tunes, and a six pack of your favorite suds, to enjoy it with. That's how I've always enjoyed it at least. Just keep that jumper box or extra jumper battery . They always go dead, and nobody wants to jumpstart these days. My extra jumpstart battery and cables, have saved my butt in too many cases. Enjoy!


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Its an older Pioneer, 400 rms/1500 max. So should handle that US Amp with no issue. I justput a new battery in the Expy as well, in hopes to avoid an electrical issues. Stereo equipment is too expensive to play that upgrade game like we used to. Hahaha, at least for me!
 

1955moose

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That's for sure. Even when I played around with it years back, it was expensive. These days, to buy the good stuff not the China crap it's only for the well healed.


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