Battery light, 14.5 volts from alternator, remote start not working......

Discussion in 'Electrical' started by RFink, Feb 7, 2018.


  1. 1955moose

    1955moose Full Access Members

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    I just got off phone with a friend that was a dealer Ford mechanic for over 30 years, and concurred with me. You should have milliamp voltage between negative terminal, and cable, not close to 12 volts battery voltage. You've got a dead short causing your voltage to ground. Stamp or bedrck has this one, as this is their expertize. I'm going to back away, and let the pro's diagnose this one.

    Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk
     
  2. deweysmith

    deweysmith Full Access Members

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    Oh I misread the 12.78 voltage drop… yeah this is out of my league.
     
  3. RFink

    RFink Member

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    Weather’s not good, might look at this weekend if it warms up a bit...
     
  4. Bedrck47

    Bedrck47 Full Access Members

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    Cold here also Might not reply until the temps get in the 80's No big hurry here

    Notice the word MIGHT does it mean you will or maybe or just saying the hell with it

    PHILLY PHILLY
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2018
  5. RFink

    RFink Member

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    Should be in the 50s, all depends on the honey do list...
     
  6. knewblewkorvett

    knewblewkorvett Full Access Members

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    I just had an alternator go nuts in my 2000 XLT. It went to 17 plus volts (wow, the dash indicators sure go nuts), blew up my battery and fried my subwoofer amp. Replaced the alternator (and battery)and it was putting out 14.5 volts but I still had the battery light on (in the dash). I was confused. Replaced the alternator with another and all is fine now.
     
  7. theoldwizard1

    theoldwizard1 Full Access Members

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    The battery disconnect is a red herring, but it does show that there is a significant load on the system. If the alternator is continuously charging at 14.5 volts, it will kill the battery. It should drop down to about 13.8-14.0 after running for about 5-10 minutes.

    First, find a "voltage drop across fuse" chart. There are dozens on the internet.

    Second, put your disconnect in the ON (closed/down) position.

    Third, with the key in the OFF position, start checking the voltage drop across all of the fuses in the fuse box under the hood. Using your chart you will see how much current each circuit is pulling. Anything over about 100 mA is too much.
     
  8. RFink

    RFink Member

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    I did check it after driving yesterday, still getting almost full voltage on the negative cable. Terminal to terminal is only .01 -.02 higher. Milli amp reading was .12-.13. I’ll do the fuse voltage drop test tomorrow, thank you.
     
  9. RFink

    RFink Member

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    I have no fuses under the hood, just pax kick panel
     

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