Battery operated impact wrench help

[oldpaddy]

Hi all, I'll be installing readylift 3/2" spacers on my truck tomorrow with my new dewalt battery impact driver. I haven't worked on my vehicles in years and never with an impact wrench. I remember I used to use a torque wrench, but that might have only been for spark plugs.

Should I worry about what torque on any of the suspension bolts? Should I only use a certain setting on my impact wrench when removing or fastening bolts?
I have 3 settings on my dewalt; 1- 400rpm, 2- 1200rpm, and 3- 1900rpm.

Also, should I loctite every bolt, and should I lubricate anything with white lithium grease while I'm down there?

Thanks for any help

 

[stamp11127]

I would be more concerned with the amount of torque for each setting vs the rpm and whether it has enough torque to remove the bolts. It wouldn't hurt to spray each nut liberally with PB Blaster and let it sit overnight. As long as you use a thread locker and not the stud and bearing mount (red loctite) it wouldn't hurt. Torque the fasteners if they gave you the specifications for them.

 

[oldpaddy]

I would be more concerned with the amount of torque for each setting vs the rpm and whether it has enough torque to remove the bolts. It wouldn't hurt to spray each nut liberally with PB Blaster and let it sit overnight. As long as you use a thread locker and not the stud and bearing mount (red loctite) it wouldn't hurt. Torque the fasteners if they gave you the specifications for them.

Thanks. Already sprayed everything I could see with pb blaster. I got the blue loctite. I don't think I have a torque wrench anymore, and if I do it's probably worthless. I'm going by the readylift expy install video on YouTube and they don't mention torque.

 

[oldpaddy]

Here's the video I'm going by. Only thing different I plan to do, is unfasten the coil mount and shocks through the engine compartment instead of through the wheel well.

 

[Adieu]

Here's the video I'm going by. Only thing different I plan to do, is unfasten the coil mount and shocks through the engine compartment instead of through the wheel well.

The top strut mounts should be accessed with a hand ratchet from the wheel well.

It's a big truck, it's not like a bimmer where the strut tower is right up under the hood.

Also, strut tower torque specs are LOW, barely over finger tight, definitely NOT power tool/breaker bar tight

 

[Adieu]

Thanks. Already sprayed everything I could see with pb blaster. I got the blue loctite. I don't think I have a torque wrench anymore, and if I do it's probably worthless. I'm going by the readylift expy install video on YouTube and they don't mention torque.

Most big torque numbers can be eyeballed using your weight

If you're 200 lbs, then laying your entire weght into a breaker bar 12" (one foot) down the handle from the fastener is LiTERALLY what 200ftlbs is.

For 300 ftlbs, it's 18 inches down the handle.... 400? 24" on a long breaker bar


Smaller numbers: ~25ftlbs = 2 finger pull on short ratchet NOT leaning your weight in

 

[oldpaddy]

It's a big truck, it's not like a bimmer where the strut tower is right up under the hood.

I don't know, looks easier to me to access from the engine compartment.

Bad pic.

 

[Adieu]

Well it's plenty easy to do from wheel well, just use a ratchet and wear gloves so you don't scratch up your knuckles on something

 

[ExpeditionAndy]

I don't know, looks easier to me to access from the engine compartment.

Bad pic.

By now you probably finished. If going from the top is more comfortable I'd do that.

 

[UncleDJ]

I figgered the best way to do it was to drop it off at the mechanic who does the work on my companies work van for me. He has a lift, a but kicking impact and the time to do it.
I typically do this kind of stuff myself, but lately I have no time.
Dropped it off this afternoon, should have it back tomorrow or Friday.
I'm doing 3" on the front and 2 1/2 on the back to keep just a tad bit of rake.