Discussion in 'Towing & Hauling' started by MattyMMA, Jun 9, 2016.
Post on the Facebook groups they will find out who's expedition that was!
Will mirrors for the 2010 fit the 2016?
I believe those will I think they fit 2001 and up. It says in the description what it fits I believe.
might have to get a set of these if anyone recommends them. The EL is long enough, then when you throw a trailer on the back some extended mirrors would be nice
I'm running extendable tow mirrors and I love them. How do I post pics now that photobucket isn't playing nice?
Mirrors are installed.
1. Unpack and inspect for damage.
2. Remove door panel - youtube helps, some say to take the door handle off, but it isn't necessary.
3. Unplug old mirror and compare new connector and old connector. We matched!
Mir2 by Pappy posted Aug 31, 2017 at 11:11 PM
4. Plug new mirror in and check for proper operation. GOOD!
5. !!! Tie a fish line to old mirror wiring !!! Tie something big to the other end of the fish line to keep it from pulling all the way thru.
Mir4 by Pappy posted Aug 31, 2017 at 11:11 PM
Mir5 by Pappy posted Aug 31, 2017 at 11:12 PM
6. WITH WINDOW ROLLED DOWN, Loosen all three mirror nuts. Put a piece of electrical tape across the top of your socket, and press it onto a a nut. This will help insure the nut does NOT get dropped down into the door. Remove the lower nuts first. WHILE HOLDING THE OLD MIRROR, Remove the top nut.
7. Remove new nuts from new mirror. The flange washer on the new nuts was much smaller than on the old ones, so I reused the old nuts.
Old nut on left.
Nuts by Pappy posted Aug 31, 2017 at 11:14 PM
8. Untie fish line from OLD mirror and tie it to the NEW mirror connector.
9. Start the new mirror wiring thru the door.
10. Install the new mirror loosely. There is a small clip near the top of the mounting surface that has to go in first. After this clip is in the hole, and the studs are through the door, the mirror will hang on its own.
Clip by Pappy posted Aug 31, 2017 at 11:11 PM
11. Start the top nut. Remember the tape on the socket to prevent nut loss.
12. Pull the wiring harness completely thru and connect. Now is a good time to double-check correct operation.
13. Start the lower nuts, then sort of snuggle everything up a tiny bit and check for fit. If AllGood, tighten everything to plenty snug, but not quite GUTENTITE. You are dealing with a plastic housing. I rechecked operation one more time.
14. Reinstall the door panel.
Side by side comparison
After install comparison
I cannot verify that the mirror heaters actually work, but I did verify that there ARE electrical connections to the mirror glass itsself, so I "assume" the heat will work.
I can confirm that the mirror heaters do indeed work, at least for the main mirror. The bottom convex mirrors do not appear to have a defroster built in.
The only real problem I experienced was that the mirrors would slowly vibrate out as I drove. Even retracted they stick out far enough to be useful when towing so I drilled a tiny hole on the underside of the extendable arm and used a small stainless steel screw to keep them retracted. Zero problems since, and I'd never consider going back to the stock mirrors. These things are a worthwhile upgrade.
I lived with the mirrors sliding out for two years and finally did what you suggested about a month ago. I still find myself slapping them back in when I get out of the truck even thought they don't have the problem anymore! That was an awesome idea!
I've had them on for about 2 years, and had very little trouble with them sliding out. The driver's side will oooooch out about 1/8" and stay there. The passenger side stays all the way in. The main mirror is indeed heated, but the convex are not.
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