Leaking ball joints in 2003 Expedition 4x4 EB

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Bedrck47

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You cat borrow most tools you need to do the job from a parts store Advance Auto, Auto Zone.

You also need a good torque wrench when doing the re assembly

I would also suggest that you get a copy of the Ford Service Manual on DVD for about $15.00 on e-bay I'll send you a link

Depending on you skill level it can be at the worst a difficult job or a PITA job
 
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sgunes

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@1955moose Thanks for the tip.
I may follow @Bedrck47 foot steps and take my time to do it. Worst case scenario I can have the local shop do it.
Anyway, just asking the questions here seems to have saved me over $1500.
Thanks everybody for your kind help.
 

1955moose

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Who's Yook me! Sounds like a guy I knew in Chinatown!

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Plati

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Once the job is done you will need to have a front end alignment done
Actually ... that's who I trust to advise me on my "ball joint situation" ... my brake and alignment specialist https://www.marksalignmentandbrake.com/ in Webster NY
Small one man shop ...very honest, does very good work

I probably wouldn't trust a dealer shop (as much) as they seem to find even the most miniscule thing that's wrong and advise repairing it.

That's a generality I know but ...
 

rjdelp7

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Lower cost me $340 at a local shop. I could of did them myself for $100. The rubber boots are filled with grease. The ball joint may still be good, but need lubrication. The originals do not have grease fittings. They make a grease needle, to add grease to this style. It will buy you time. When bad, they may or may not clunk and wear inner or outer of front tires. When shot, they can break and front wheel, will partially detach and leave you stranded. Alignments afterward, are recommended, but only adjustments are for toe. Technically, the ball joint, does not effect toe, tie rods do.
 
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1955moose

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As far as alignments, you can also do camber adjustments with the installation of a bolt in kit available through Moog, and other sources. On my 2000 Eddie Bauer, it uses torsion bar suspension up front instead of coil spring's. So caster is adjustable. Caster rarely needs adjustment, unless in an accident, or messed with. Camber too, usually unless smacked hard is within specs. Mine was far enough out that required the upper control arm kits.

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