My 2000 5.4l Eddie Bauer 4x4

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ExplorerTom

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The Saturday before Thankgiving was the last time I drove it because I've been working on replacing the intake manifold (again).

42k miles ago, I replaced what I can only assume was the factory manifold with the Dornan replacement because the coolant crossover tube was cracked and leaking. Common failure point. Well, 2.5 years and 42k miles later, the Dorman is a piece of crap. The crossover tube didn't crack but the integral gaskets just don't seem to hold up over time. Plus the crossover tube appeared to be leaking from an improperly torqued fastener:
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All the gaskets just didn't look like they were doing their job very well.
A51FA5F4-CF4F-4C38-88FC-046D43D2A50E.jpg

The resulting leak patterns on the block:
2ADC5AA1-B993-4A4B-9AFC-B698E610BFF7.jpg

This time I went with the Ford manifold. On Amazon it's only about $150 more than the Dorman. Plus the Ford manifold comes with a sound insulating jacket around the lower plenum. And it doesn't use those cheesy coarse threaded screws that the Dorman uses.

But I also had to get gaskets. I went with the Felpro gaskets. These gaskets look like they are quality made.

I didn't get pictures of either of these.

I know..... it shouldn't take 3 weeks to do this repair. But I was held up by.........
 
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ExplorerTom

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So while I had the intake manifold out, I decided that since my injectors had 223k miles on them, they may not be flowing all that well. I sent them off to www.injector-rehab.com to be flow tested and cleaned. I had no reason to suspect anything was wrong with any of them other than mileage.

Turns out one wasn't flowing at all.
injector%20report.gif

I guess I am a little disappointed that the "before" test wasn't too much different than the "after" for the other 7. But there was some improvement.

The result is great. The idle is super smooth now. I guess I thought the ever so slight "lope" was just normal. Now it's smooth as can be. Throttle response is better-as expected.

Too early to tell if mileage will improve.
 

poorboy1964

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Interesting Tom Really left me wondering here if that would be this odd miss I have been chasing for months I did not think injectors thinking they would throw a code???

With you on the Dorman stuff I use it when I have to but their gaskets have been terrible in the diesel parts Guys that used the Dorman oil cooler had gaskets disintegrate inside the engine.
 
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ExplorerTom

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There's nothing to monitor if an injector squirts or not. The coil still fired. The O2 sensors adjust for the slight lean condition by fattening the rest up. The knock sensor wouldn't pick it up since that cylinder wouldn't knock. The injector itself still energized the solenoid- just nothing flowed through it.

You could try unplugging the harness to each injector and see if it idles worse or remains the same. That may throw a code though.
 
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I added some LED strip lights under the hood.
73A5165B-42D9-4D2B-8D69-6F4F2DF03E4B.jpg
C7796E39-5839-4386-84EA-946A7621B69B.jpg

Super bright. I'm a little concerned about how well the provided foam double sided sticky tape will hold up to the heat being located right above the radiator. I guess time will tell.

But I need to figure out a switch. I thought I was being smart by tapping into the power for the factory underhood light- but the strip lights remained on with the hood shut. I didn't notice until I was shutting the hood that the factory light flickers as the hood is closed and I figured there must be a position (angle) based switch in the light housing.

I finally got a switch wired up to complete this. I used one of those lamp cord switches. It's a little messy and cheesy looking (the wiring job) but the result is a good amount of light in the engine bay.

Now I need to figure out why my backup camera stopped working.
 

scoot0073

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I added some LED strip lights under the hood.
73A5165B-42D9-4D2B-8D69-6F4F2DF03E4B.jpg
C7796E39-5839-4386-84EA-946A7621B69B.jpg

Super bright. I'm a little concerned about how well the provided foam double sided sticky tape will hold up to the heat being located right above the radiator. I guess time will tell.

But I need to figure out a switch. I thought I was being smart by tapping into the power for the factory underhood light- but the strip lights remained on with the hood shut. I didn't notice until I was shutting the hood that the factory light flickers as the hood is closed and I figured there must be a position (angle) based switch in the light housing.
I been on here awhile now 2 years or so and this is the first time I came across your thread Tom.
I just read the whole thing and well done.

I myself is wanting to put lights under my hood also 03 Expedition.
I really like how it lights up everything definitely a must do..
Honestly idk if mine even has a hood light. I never noticed one and darn ain't never light up.

I did add a LED light to the rear hatch so that at night when I got the hatch opened up the LED light now lights up the ground where u would be standing.
I tied it into the rear cargo ceiling light so that it come on when the interior lights come on.
And I even did the complete LED light conversion and this added light to the hatch really lights up the cargo area very good when hatch is closed.

Thanks for sharing Brother.
I really need to do a build up thread to help me and others

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scoot0073

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As I suspected nope there is no factory hood light. I guess the easiest way would be to run it to a toggle switch.
Or tie it into the interior lights some where and it would come on every time the interior lights did.
But I don't want the under hood light to come on with the interior lights .

And here's pics of the LED light I added to the rear hatch so u have a better understanding.
Since we camp allot and I do alot of night fishing this is a must..

The second picture is looking through the back side Glass94b816fe58cf26e5c9cdbe995b204c50.jpgff387f74d702cdd35546caed9bc633ec.jpg0979964ad746f180d69a41e88fe12a3f.jpg5553e0a95fe31dc05eee0068e9914a7b.jpg

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