New Expedition Owner

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JediKnight2

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Just upgraded from a 1997 GMC Jimmy 4x4 to a 2006 Ford Expedition Limited with 111,000 miles. Picked her up for a good deal I think. Is there a page that lists all of the fluid capacities and types? I know Ford changed weights on differential fluids so I just want to make sure I'm using the proper weights of the fluids. I think I can do the rear differential and transfer case fluid changes on my own. The transmission fluid change is too messy probably to do in the driveway. Will also need a u-joint, but I can probably do that unless it's worth it to let the shop do it. Anything I should do right off the bat?
 
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JediKnight2

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Those were told to me to have been done 3 years ago. I do have one issue. I had Walmart do an oil change and they put in a Fram filter. I'm now getting a rattle at startup. Didn't do that during my test drives. It was a cold start too when I got there to test drive it. I'm assuming it's because they didn't use a Motor Craft filter without an anti drain back valve. Not sure if I should wait until the next oil change or drain the oil, change the filter and put oil back in...

Also, I had some condensate dripping from under the drivers rear bumper area....not sure what that's about as the A/C stuff is on the passengers side I thought. I did run it through a car wash last night, but I've driven it twice this morning and didn't' notice water back there. It's dripping from the bumper frame.

Will be freakin out for the next few months with the new creaks and groans I'm not used to.
 

Hamfisted

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You can go to Walmart and pickup a Motorcraft FL-820S oil filter for under $5 and swap them out. You don't need to drain the oil to change the oil filter. What oil did they put in it ? I would recommend Mobil One 10w-30 in it to keep those timing chain guides and other parts clean and lubed right.
 
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JediKnight2

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5w20 is what they put in, synthetic blend. How much oil is going to come out if I pull the filter...
 

Hamfisted

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It's a half quart filter. So somewhere around that much. Put some type of drain pan under the area to catch the spillage. Not saying it's gonna dump a half quart of oil, but be ready for that much.
 

1955moose

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Swap the filter, oils fine. Your only losing 1/2 quart. U joints are a easy job as long as you have access to a vise, and own sockets to press out and in. One to press, one to receive u joint cup. Buy or borrow a large cement pan from hardware store, and tranny service is no big deal. Don't try with small round pan. Just buy a bag of oil absorbent just in case. I acquire large old oil containers like 2 gallon vegetable oil ones to pour old oil into.. Get a wide funnel to help with oil transfer. Lots of newspaper around container to catch leaks helps. Hope that helps!

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johnboneske

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BTW, the Fram and Motorcraft filer both have an anti drain back valve... the cheap Fram, to the expensive one.
 

1955moose

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I thought so too. But apparently all the oiling problems on 3 valve 5.4 engines seem to act up more with the Fram, actually all the low end filters. Could be coincidence, but that many owners can't be wrong. I personally use Fram in my 2 valve motor, have used them for years. I now use the better Fram only cause I found a great deal on a 5 pack. Shame again that Ford even released such a poor design with all their experience, but they did, over 400,000 or more between f150 and expedition per year not to mention mustangs and whatever vehicles used their motors. It all boils down to profit. I'm sure the engineers say this is going to be a problem, but the top brass says we can fix things later, just build them!

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Judge Mills

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The transmission filter change is pretty easy. Like others said, get a larger drip pan. It's much cheaper doing it yourself. My 05' had a reusable gasket from the factory. Not a drip since!

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