Power windows won't work

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

joeytforrest

Active Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2015
Posts
31
Reaction score
0
Location
Houston
I have an 08 Expedition KR with 115k miles. All power window switches would quit at the same time. I would replace the 30A fuse in the cabin fuse box which would seem to stop the problem. Although replacing the fuse would "seemingly" allow the window switches to work, the fuse didn't look blown and multimeter has confirmed there is continuity.

Now windows won't work and fuse is good. I'm a novice with the multimeter but checked continuity and voltage in the fuse box under the hood and in the cabin. All looks good except for 30A power window fuse in cabin. Fuse is good (tried many) but looks like no voltage coming to the fuse. Thought about bypassing any relay directly to fuse but wasn't comfortable with that yet.

Could this be a relay (cannot find/dnk which relay controls windows)? Any suggestions?

Many thanks in advace for the assistance.
 
Last edited:

stamp11127

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 10, 2012
Posts
6,218
Reaction score
1,250
Location
Temple, Georgia
According to the owners manual there is a circuit breaker for the power windows not a fuse.

Fuse #47

Are you sure that you have the correct fuse?

See attached.

Since you have a meter, use voltage to check when power is applied to a circuit and use continuity when a component is removed and unpowered from a circuit.

If there is a fuse in place of a cb, check for power on both sides of the fuse at the test points with the ignition in run and let us know. Wiggle the fuse while testing if you don't have power.
 

Attachments

  • Expy 08 pg 306.pdf
    84.7 KB · Views: 44
  • Expy 08 pg 304.pdf
    66.6 KB · Views: 40
Last edited:
OP
OP
J

joeytforrest

Active Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2015
Posts
31
Reaction score
0
Location
Houston
Thank you for the reply. Yes, 47 is what I am looking at and I just thought it was a maxi fuse due to its size and shape. The images you provided are correct and match my manual and situation. Also, all purchased replacements 30A have looked identical to the original fuse/cb that was removed. Even the original didn't looked burnt/blown but it is long gone.

Clarification on instructions: "check for power on both sides of the fuse at the test points" - Are the test points both contacts where the two blades are inserted? If so, I checked the blade contacts with fuse/cb removed a few times. At no time was I registering the 14.2V.

I have four 30A fuses and did a continuity check both while inserted and removed. Each "beeped" in both situations.

I checked with vehicle running and all cabin fuses surrounding 47 would show about 14.2v while 47 would not indicate anything consistent and meter readings were inconsistent and erratic.

I'll do the "wiggle" test :) this evening when I get home and provide the results. Also, I'll stop by the ford dealer to try and get a wiring diagram.

Thank you again for the reply.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
J

joeytforrest

Active Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2015
Posts
31
Reaction score
0
Location
Houston
Okay, I performed the wiggle test to see if there was intermittent contact but no results. I finally powered the 30A slot directly from the battery with 16G wire. This powered the circuit and all the window motors operated.

I think this tells me that there's a break in the line between the battery and the cabin fuse box/control module. Truthfully, I think this is where I take the car to the shop. I'm not confident of being able to track down a broken wire in the wiring harness located in the engine compartment.

Any thoughts?

Thanks again for any advice given.
 

lifted dave

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2016
Posts
46
Reaction score
6
Location
Arkansas
I had a similar problem to the point where I was going to buy new window motors. Friend of mine told me to take my door panels off and unplug the wire from motor clean contacts and plug back in wire. Hadn't had any problems since. Hooe that helps
 
OP
OP
J

joeytforrest

Active Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2015
Posts
31
Reaction score
0
Location
Houston
I got all window motors to operate last night when I ran hot and ground directly from the battery to the fuse box so I think I have a break somewhere in between. Prior to the non-functioning, the windows were very slow so I will also take your advice and clean the contacts as well.

Many thanks for the reply.
 

Bedrck47

Full Access Members
Joined
Jul 4, 2014
Posts
5,641
Reaction score
652
Location
Elizebethtown, PA
F47 get its power from the Acc. Delay Relay. Try changing the relay and see if that helps the problem
 

stamp11127

Full Access Members
Joined
Mar 10, 2012
Posts
6,218
Reaction score
1,250
Location
Temple, Georgia
Seeing that you have a meter, know about wire gauge sizes and apparently know basic electrical, why not invest time and find/fix it yourself.
 
OP
OP
J

joeytforrest

Active Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2015
Posts
31
Reaction score
0
Location
Houston
Excellent advice, Stamp. I am a little intimidated with the sheer bulk of the wiring harness but have given it some more thought. I would like to get a tracer like the etc2000 to assist. Thoughts?

Bedrck47, thank you for that info. I've been wondering about which relay on which to focus but without a wiring diagram, I've been somewhat lost. I'll try the relay first to see if that solves my troubles.

Thanks to both for the advice to date.
 
Top