Power windows won't work

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stamp11127

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I was going from memory on F47 which protects the load side of the relay. Your are correct with how the connections would be made. No need to splice into the existing harness, the connectors would make it plug & play. The only soldering would be the lead of the branch from F33 to 86 of the new socket. Any good ground would connect to 85 of the relay socket.

When you turn the ignition to run the external relay is energized connecting 87 to 30 which would then provide power to the windows. You would be moving the "control" from the circuitry on the sjb to the ignition switch when in the run position.

If you decide to do this, mount the new relay socket where it is easy to get to but will not be kicked by the passenger.

Don't fuse the branch any higher than 3 amps (purple fuse) unless the relay coil reads less than 68 ohms. Less resistance allows a higher amount of current through the circuit

Volts / resistance = amps

12 / 68 = .176...
 
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joeytforrest

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Had to order parts online. Will complete the project this weekend. Certainly wouldn't have gotten this far without forum... Thanks!
 

mfdbackdraft

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To Stamp and Bdrck:
Help!!!
I have a Taurus X with a bad drivers window....... much smaller production means fewer posts and no info. Do you have access / can you point me in a direction for data.
Note: three wires to switch were abraded on door reinforcement and repaired. Seems fuses are good. Direct wired motor which goes up and down.
New door switch didn't help.
Q: where is one touch control/unit. Can it be tested out and replaced if bad?
All other windows work. Can I bypass one touch and trust myself to put window all the way up?
 
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