Quick Brake Change Help Requested

Discussion in 'Transmission & Drive train' started by acolic, Aug 11, 2017.

  1. acolic

    acolic Full Access Members

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    Hi I could use a bit of help.

    I was pretty proud of myself changing the front brake lines and decided to change the pads and rotors since I had everything apart.

    The left side came out really easy but I am having extreme difficulty with the right side.

    First one of the caliper pins is stripped and the torx bit is spinning. I can't see a way of getting the pin out the only thing I can think of doing is cutting the end of the pin off so that the calliper slides off the calliper holder and then try to take the rest the pin out.

    The second bizarre issue is I can't get the rotor off. It's seems to have fused to the hub. I tried taking a sledgehammer to it and it will not move off the hub.

    Has this ever happened to anyone else?

    Any suggestions?

    Appreciate the help.



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  2. acolic

    acolic Full Access Members

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    Hi

    I got the rotor off. And I had to cut the caliper pin off. After that it was pretty easy to take the rest of the pin out. I then found out that the caliper was seized and I had to replace it anyways. I ten moved on to the rear brakes and was almost done when I found out that the rear caliper bleed screws are rusted and stripped. Oh well a job for tomorrow.


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  3. theoldwizard1

    theoldwizard1 Full Access Members

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    Raybestos "loaded" rear calipers (includes pads and all hardware), part #RC10912 and #RC10911 are only $64 from RockAuto (not including shipping and after core return).

    Capture.JPG


    The fronts, part #RC10910 and #RC10909 are $75.

    I highly recommend Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors ! They are mire expensive, but the don't warp like cheap rotors.
     
  4. 98eb5.4

    98eb5.4 Full Access Members

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    vise grips worked well for me, chews up the head good tho, then dumped the the torx deal with hex head bolts
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2017
  5. 98eb5.4

    98eb5.4 Full Access Members

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    they should come off easy but can get stuck big time if on for a long time,

    lotsa folks try hammering from behind where you have access to the outer edges of the disk,

    you can whack away there so hard that you can damage the disk & it still wont come off!!

    the trick is whacking it from the front in the center area first which is way more effective at breaking the bond

    also can't hurt to use penetrating oil in the disk center bore area first, then clean & lube that area to prevent future sticking,

    doesn't take much corrosion in there to seize it up,

    if original, you should also replace at least the main front to rear brake line, they are known to rust out around midpoint, where the way it is routed, you can't even really see it, till next thing you know u spring a leak & the pedal goes soft
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2017
  6. intelisevil

    intelisevil Member

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    If you don't use the correct "Lube" here it can flow (between the heat and centrifugal forces) onto the rotor braking surface.

    I use a thin layer Kopr-Kote Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant on all of the surfaces where the rotor touches the hub. It doesn't melt or move around.
     
    Last edited: Aug 16, 2017 at 3:14 AM

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