There goes the motor..,

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1955moose

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Sounds like your oil pump took a dump. I'm betting your lower end is toast too. Those damned oem pumps on the 3 valve motors. Let us know when you tear into it, Moose.


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Adieu

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Not surprised to be honest I saw this day coming sooner or later,

Started it up thing morning and all is fine, warmed it up for 15mins then took off to work, go on the highway and crusing alone at 70mph when "check gauges" illuminated and oil pressure dropped to zero.

I turned off the heater and radio and I can hear the motor knocking loud as a ****, I didn't even finish switching lanes to get to the shoulder before it shut off. It came to rest on a shoulder half the width of the truck on the fast lane side, I restated it and it started actually and got it to move to a more wider area of the shoulder but before I stopped it died again... So I let roll till i was far enough from moving traffic.

Now on side of the road, been sitting here for 2+ hours in 10 degree weather I lost feeling to half my body now but I have a tow truck on route (no tow companies in the area allowed to operate on the highway) the tow that's coming is a recommendation from the state trooper behind me.

Anyways gonna take it home soon hopefully but it won't even turn over, not even the slightest tick when I turn the key... It seized.

I'm assuming either the chain snapped, spun a bearing or bent valve/piston.

Thankfully I got my g37 I can drive for now but I'm gonna need the expy for work so I got sometime to figure out my next move or determine what the damage is.

If the motor is a total goner... see a junkyard about a rear-ended total loss expy/navi/f150 engine with grandma miles??

Or...

3rd gen SSVs can be had from 3-4 grand.... swap the engine into yours, or swap your interior into one
 
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Habbibie

Habbibie

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How do I find the code for the triton I have, if I spot one on an f150 I want to make sure I'm looking at the same motor no other variation??
 

briangelc

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132K miles? That car was improperly maintained.
As for replacing the motor, a junkyard replacement is the easiest. If you can find another one with less than 150K miles on it, you will likely get another 100K of service out of it. My 1999 5.4L has 230K and is smooth as silk, no oil leaks, dependable.
 

Snag

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You might be able to save the engine, but keep running it and chances diminish. Starts fine and looses oil pressure, I would anticipate debris up in the oil pickup screen, probably your plastic timing guides. They have killed many modular engines. Depending on how long its been run and damage done the fix MAY be easier then replacing the engine with a junk yard one with likely the same problems.
First pull the pan and see what you find. If junk in the pan and pickup screen pull a couple main and rod caps and check bearing and Crankshaft. If they are in good shape the engine may be fixable. I would anticipate at a minimum timing chain assembly, phasers, Melling M340 or 360 oil pump, new lash adjusters and followers. Like I say, start in the pan first that will give you some ideas what happened.
Oh the PO344 is camshaft position sensor. Another indication you have timing chain problems. Lets hope it hasn't jumped timing and bouncing valves off pistons.

Sadly, the weather sucks and not a good time of year for any repairs unless you have access to a nice garage

Good Luck
 
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Habbibie

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Ok an update:

Keep in mind this trucks is $3500-4500 street value..

Option 1: complete replacement (most expensive) jasper engine, total cost plus labor in the ball park of $7500, non jasper motor $5000

Option 2: used engine ( I found 2 so far) total cost plus labor $3400-$3900, add an additional $1100 for new parts I will immediately update (chain/phaser kit, melling pump) up to a possible cost of $5000

Option 3: rebuild current motor, total cost $2500-$2750 using evergreen parts or $3300 using OEM motorcraft, an old school ford master mechanic will do the rebuild.

Option 4: sell it/junk it and move on to something else..

All options were verified by phone and actual conversations not internet based.

So at least now I have choices...
 

1955moose

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Why not go option 3. I would do it myself, or have the Ford mechanic do it. Seen too much garbage engine work/ parts lately. I know your a busy guy, but if you can see what's happening with the labor and parts, you know it's going together right. The oil pump and cams are critical so get good ones. The other thing that makes a huge difference is having a machine shop do the cylinder honing. They have Sunnen equipment that makes the piston rings seat better than any drill operated ones. You may have to bore First over, so this won't be an issue.


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Snag

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Its a crap shoot. Building yourself or someone you trust is always the best option. The rig looks to be in clean condition from the pic you posted. Being Chicago if rust free, a truck worth fixing. If cancer is starting not worth the money or time.
 

Adieu

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Buy a 3rd gen SSV and try to cannibalize all the creature comforts from your 2 gen and move then into the SSV?
 
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Habbibie

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Ok kinda gotta get the truck going soon, im down to two options and I'm exactly 50/50 on them,

Option 1: rebuild the motor
$2200-$2500 total & takes 1-2 weeks

Option 2: replace with used engine (50k verified miles & no phaser tick)
$3500 total 2-3 days repair time

Help me decide please...
 
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