What oil/filter do you use?

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lbv150

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Anyone who changes their oil every 3k is a moron!! Look at the owners manual, the manufacturer knows better than anyone when to change it. The Stealership, and oil change places lie to you...

I use Mobile 1 extended good for up to 15k. As I didn't state that in my last post.

Thanks for the insult...you must be a left leaning liberal.
 

ManUpOrShutUp

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Thanks for the insult...you must be a left leaning liberal.

And injecting politics into a completely unrelated conversation like a child tugging at mommy's shirt tail for attention makes you an idiot.

Anyone who changes their oil every 3k is a moron!! Look at the owners manual, the manufacturer knows better than anyone when to change it. The Stealership, and oil change places lie to you...

I use Mobile 1 extended good for up to 15k. As I didn't state that in my last post.

I agree. There is absolutely no scientific evidence to support changing the oil every 3K in a healthy engine. None. Zero. Head on over to BITOG and look at every single analysis posted of oil at 5-6K and even the generic oil is still only starting to show signs of breakdown at that mileage. The same people who change the oil at 3K are usually the ones changing their platinum spark plugs at 40K, their coils every time they change the spark plugs, their air filter every oil change and their O2 sensors just because. They don't have any scientific reason for doing so; they just do it because somewhere along the way they heard/read they were supposed to do it from someone.
 
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1955moose

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John, their not morons, just being overly cautious. We were so used to changing oil at 3k, that we still feel we have to. Back in the day when all we had was petroleum oil, you had to drop oil at no longer than 3,500. Reason was oil started to break down, and was losing its ability to protect. Full synthetics will go out to 15k, but you still have dirty oil pumping through your motor. I changed my oil/filter last weekend with a tick above 6k. I run Mobil 1 5w30, with a premium fram filter. I know I could go way further, but I do a lot of low mileage stop and go driving. The reason I run fram is my 4x4 is a pain to get filter off, the fram has the rough grippy stuff at the end. 3 years, and 26,000 miles, no issues.


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johnboneske

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Ironically, I didnt see anyone say anything about changing it every 3k miles. And, NO... I am NOT a liberal. I have NEVER voted for a Dumocrat!
 

johnboneske

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Back in the day, if you remember if a car went 100k it was VERY unusual... Now most cars dont even require a "tune up" until 100K. Tolerances of engines are much tighter today too.
 

1955moose

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Metalurgy, along with improvements in oil and coolants have a lot to do with longevity of modern engines. Datsun, Honda and Toyota are examples of using quality parts, even back in the 70's and eighties. My Datsun 240z had 180 k on it when I sold it. My brother had a 79 Toyota pickup with a tick over 300k. Try getting that mileage on an American 4 cylinder back in the day. It took until the late 90's and later before American vehicle quality even began to nip on the heels of the Japanese and Germans. Shame we fought them both back in the day, but they won the financial war in the end.

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USMCBuckWild

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Metalurgy, along with improvements in oil and coolants have a lot to do with longevity of modern engines. Datsun, Honda and Toyota are examples of using quality parts, even back in the 70's and eighties. My Datsun 240z had 180 k on it when I sold it. My brother had a 79 Toyota pickup with a tick over 300k. Try getting that mileage on an American 4 cylinder back in the day. It took until the late 90's and later before American vehicle quality even began to nip on the heels of the Japanese and Germans. Shame we fought them both back in the day, but they won the financial war in the end.

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One of the big reasons for the 3k oci back in the day was the leaded gas. Majority of it burned off but lead contaminants are very hard on oil. I know leaded gas ceased a long time ago, but some things just carry over.

But you are correct; better fluids, better materials, better tolerances, better designs all equate to longer lasting engines and less wear when properly maintained.

There are some pure dino oils that can run 10k, but they are more highly refined with better additive packages and expensive.
 

1955moose

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Hadn't thought about the lead in fuel! Good point. Back in the day, bureaucrats could care less who died from lead poisoning, from exhaust household paint, or any of the environment problems of the day. Good point about the fuel.

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USMCBuckWild

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I just ran into this tidbit. Rotella T6 5W-40 is no longer API SN certified. T6 5W-30 is, but not 5W-40.

https://rotella.shell.com/products/t6-full-synthetic.html
https://rotella.shell.com/products/...-vehicle-5w-30-full-synthetic-heavy-duty.html


The reason T6 is no longer 'S' rated is that the new S Specification calls for no more than 0.08 % phosphorus. The previous S Spec was no more than 0.10 % phosphorus. But, the new CK4 diesel Spec allows 0.12%.

The "lower" phosphorus levels are a definitive difference in the diesel vs gas oil specs, where previously there was less differential between the 2. Phosphorus is known to be much more resistant to ash degradation as well as a 'lubricant' in its own right. But, high levels of phosphorus (especially in a vehicle that burns oil) has been known to affect gas engine catlytic convertors. Hence the dropping of the SN rating (which is supposed to support engines built after 2010 with a high fuel economy requirement). T6 still fulfills the GF-5 passenger car oil spec though, which is ACTUALLY the baseline for SN.

Basically the .gov forced them to choose a diesel oil or a passenger car oil. Shell chose to dedicate T6 as a diesel oil, then blended it to be a 5w30 at 0.08% phosphorus and rebranded it as "T6 Multi-vehicle" to appeal to a broader market.

Meh, changes nothing for me. In all actuality the CK4 spec supercedes the SF-5 and SN spec in all ways except the phosphorus.
 

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