The tranny service interval on the 2011 is 150K and the fuel filter is non-servicable. It's in the tank. I changed the tranny fluid and screen at 75K. The tiny little dipstick is conveniently located near the catalytic converter, pretty much guaranteeing burns when you're trying to measure fluid level at the correct temperature. On a positive note, those spark plugs are very easy to change.
What year expedition to buy?
- Thread starter 1955moose
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1955moose
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I know I was quoting early vehicles like mine. I have a 2000. Even with synthetic fluids, sure seems like a high mileage interval to do trans service. Seems to work most of the time, smart to change yours at earlier intervals. Like motor oil, clean is always better than burnt, or dirty. Especially if you tow, or do severe duty. Our members that get 250k plus on trannys, and 350k on motors, are diligent about their services.
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tcwaltz
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Bondo glass is waterproof which is why I used it.
So I used this kit to for the top. http://www.eastwood.com/ew-no-weld-panel-repair-kit.html
I highly recommend this for anyone that has any sheet metal work to do because you don't have to worry about welding and warping anything. The roof metal is thin and warps easily. Anyway. I got a piece of 18ga steel from Lowe's to cut the patches out of. I used the flanging tool to bend down flanges in the roof of the truck where the holes were. Keep in mind that mine run into those little grooves to I cut and bent the grooves up and had a tab on the back of my patch that went into the groove. The body panel adhesive is waterproof and seals the joint up pretty well. Most of the rivets are sealed with the adhesive as well although you can put some in after as well. the repair is extremely strong. When I was done I used short hair bondo glass to go over the top of the repair. I purposely flanged deeper than I need to so that I could get a good layer of bondo glass (http://bondo.com/products/fiberglass/bondo-glass-reinforced-filler-00277.html#DWOuouZyPEwf2ghO.97) in. I have not finished since I did this back when we had alot of rain. I really need to sand this down then fill it properly and finish it off. Right now though not one drip through. I left my headliner out for two weeks and we had rain for most of that time. Not one drip. Bondoglass is VERY strong. I had one 1/2 rust through that I drilled out and didn't really feel like patching up. I spread bondo glass through and let it drip though the other side. Figured I'd just snap it off after it dryed...No dice, had to cut it off.
On other note, in that kit is a rivet dimpler. Don't bother, while the concept is good, I found I couldn't get my panels as snug as I liked. What I did instead was bought stainless steel aircraft rivets. I then took a 3/8" drill bit and used it to "countersink" my sheet metal after drilling my 1/8" holes for the rivets. This put the rivets almost flush with the sheet metal and I got a nice smooth seal. The rivets are part of what holds it in place, but the adhesive is doing most of the work. The spring loaded pins in the kit and hold the panel in place while you rivet and drill are awesome. Wish I had photos of what I did.
ExplorerTom
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Paper filters filter far better than a K&N. At wide open throttle, the K&N will flow better. Decide which is more important to you.
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1955moose
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A quality paper air filter works fine. Ideally a Ford filter from the dealer flows the best, but any quality one is fine. A mesh one like a k&n flows more air through it, which works better if you have any performance upgrades, but can actually make your vehicle run lean, if you don't. Just remember to replace your paper filter every 2 years or so for optimum performance. Like your oil filter it needs to be replaced, otherwise it gets blocked/ clogged, hindering performance , and raising emissions on a smog test. Be real careful removing/ replacing filter, as you've got Maf sensor on the bottom of air tube to contend with.
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Thx Moose, filter was very dirty, so replaced with the paper. Engine runs like a top, but when warm idles high, 850-900. No sel.
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1955moose
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Is the high idle in neutral or drive? Should be about 650 rpm in drive. If your running that high in drive, you'll need to do some diagnostic. Run a scanner for codes. Make sure you have no intake/ Exaust leaks. Your computer will try to compensate. A sticky idle is one of the byproducts.
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