What year expedition to buy?

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Gumbyalso

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If it's in good condition, I am jealous of sphillips' 2000 with only 77K on it. I use K&N air filters on all my cars/trucks - 2000 and 2011 Expedition, two 2005 (4WD & 2WD) Explorers and a 2008 F150. From experience I think the K&Ns gain me about 1 to 1.5 mpg depending on the engine (5.4, 4.2 or 4.0) and since I generally keep vehicles until they die, the K&Ns save me money over buying paper filters. I clean them every 25K. It is not terribly convenient to clean them, let them dry and re-oil them, but I'm accustomed to it. Stay with paper if your time is more important than a little savings - but I probably would have bought 11 paper filters for the one K&N I've had in my 2000 Expedition. I keep the old paper ones around that came with the vehicles in case someone needs to drive it while I'm cleaning the K&N. The few times I've every had a issue with an K&N, K&N replaces it immediately. For oil filters I've been alternating between K&N Wrench Offs and Wix XPs. There are a few things I like better about the Wix XPs oil filters over the K&N Wrench Off filters - like the XP using a tension spring instead a leaf spring and the XP base plate having 8 flow holes instead of the 6 on the K&N. I have found that there's about as many opinions on oil and oil filters as there are brands, so my opinion is just one of many.
 

sphillips

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Is the high idle in neutral or drive? Should be about 650 rpm in drive. If your running that high in drive, you'll need to do some diagnostic. Run a scanner for codes. Make sure you have no intake/ Exaust leaks. Your computer will try to compensate. A sticky idle is one of the byproducts.


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High idle is in both neutral and drive. When I first start the engine it revs to 2000 rpm then slowly works its way down to the 850-900 range
 
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1955moose

1955moose

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It's supposed to rev up to about 1600 or so on cold start up. That's essentially your choke from days of carburetors. Your computer and sensors read a cold engine, and deliver a richer fuel mixture, along with a higher idle to compensate for the extra fuel charge. In the past, carburetors had a window, on top of carb, along with a stepped plate on the side. It was controlled by a coiled spring on the side that opened or closed depending on either heat and a tube or later electrical current that told carburetor the engine temperature is cold or hot. Modern fuel injected engines are controlled by various sensors, like a cold start valve, and manifold sensors, that put the computer into either a closed or open loop system. The problem with all modern vehicles, it's essential to have a perfectly sealed and proper tuned engine, like spark plugs, boots, coils etc, or it will misfire, or have idling problems. Run or have someone run your codes, so you can get a start on your problem. If you notice a rough idle, have a shop or friend, do an intake/ Exaust smoke check.


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sphillips

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It's supposed to rev up to about 1600 or so on cold start up. That's essentially your choke from days of carburetors. Your computer and sensors read a cold engine, and deliver a richer fuel mixture, along with a higher idle to compensate for the extra fuel charge. In the past, carburetors had a window, on top of carb, along with a stepped plate on the side. It was controlled by a coiled spring on the side that opened or closed depending on either heat and a tube or later electrical current that told carburetor the engine temperature is cold or hot. Modern fuel injected engines are controlled by various sensors, like a cold start valve, and manifold sensors, that put the computer into either a closed or open loop system. The problem with all modern vehicles, it's essential to have a perfectly sealed and proper tuned engine, like spark plugs, boots, coils etc, or it will misfire, or have idling problems. Run or have someone run your codes, so you can get a start on your problem. If you notice a rough idle, have a shop or friend, do an intake/ Exaust smoke check.


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Thx again moose, I have scanner at work, will it show a code even though no SEL?
 
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1955moose

1955moose

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Codes will show on scanner, not always is it severe enough to trip the light. When a problem is bad enough, the cel will flash as your driving, along with some nasty running conditions.


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1955moose

1955moose

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No prob!


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backnine29

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Nothing major to add. Our 2000 EB (new at purchase) has been excellent engine wise; no major issues. Regular service. 126K miles so far. Did have a pretty significant electrical issue with the windows, but all fine several years after repair. Odometer light recently started going off and on, but don't want to tackle a dismantling of the dash for a likely solder job nor spend $700 for a dealer repair. Otherwise been a reliable, excellent production year compared to what I've read about earlier and later models. Got lucky buying when we did.
 
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1955moose

1955moose

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You know if Ford would have sealed the window proper, and not skimped on the threads for the spark plugs, first editions were the best models.


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WHITE 99 EB

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I have a White 1999 Eddie Bauer that i purchased 2 years ago from the original owner. It had 72k on it never used for towing just driving the kids to and from. The air ride suspension was shot when I bought it. I drove it home from Washington DC to Philadelphia up interstate 95 bouncing the whole way! I converted to springs and shocks. Installed new brakes,one brake line, front brake hoses, and a drivers side window motor. Changed rear axle oil, trans fluid and filter, transfercase fluid, antifreeze and installed a K&N air filter. Last week installed a 2'' rear coil spring lift and cranked up the front torsion bars. I paid 3200 for the truck drove it on family vacations to myrtle beach,north carolina,tennessee and getttysburg. This has been a great truck does it all and didn't break the bank.
i
 

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