I use a Veepeak OBD bluetooth reader where I can see about 65 difference parameters on my 2020 3.5L model. Oil pressure on this reader shows in psi. At idle, I show about 21 psi. At 2100 rpm its about 30 psi. At 4500 rpm, it shows about 45 psi. I used to tow a 6,000 lb trailer and I watched...
My 2020 3.5L has 107,000 miles and I have been the only owner. Every 5,000 miles, I change the oil regardless of what the computer shows. Having worked with oil engineers during my performance engine building years, I was told the additive packages started to break down - on average - just after...
With 104,000 miles on the odometer, mine has been changed every 5,000 miles. The same people who brought you auto stop/start are recommending a ridiculous change interval - not for me. I think changing every 3,500 miles is too short, but its your car and is still good insurance if you pull a...
The factory puts good oil in the engine. And its appropriate for a new engine. They also ensure there is no sand from sand casting, by using shot blasting and cleaning, so don't worry about that. What you really want to do, is drive the car for about 1,000 - 2,000 miles, then change. What you...
"does anyone ever use normal mode to pick up that 10th gear when highway towing?"
Absolutely not. The normal mode is all about mpg and nothing for towing nearly any amount of weight. You'll be engaging all those solenoids as the transmission hunts for the right gear, thereby decreasing the life...
Does it shift better cold? Clunking into gear is somewhat normal. Also, a real mechanical failure will hunt for gears as that sleeve that moves, partially blocking fluid. Since it's intermittent, you might want to erase the adaptive learning tables. Mine has 84,000 miles and did most of what you...
My 2020 has 84,000 miles, 25,000 of which pulling a 6,500lb camper trailer around the US. My wife had to pull a trailer from TN to GA for a total of about 250 miles, and did not use tow haul mode. The transmission started acting up back in June where 5th gear would slam into gear. After the...
UPDATE
I just got back from an 8,000 mile round trip, from JAX to Wyoming and back. I pulled a 6300lb travel trailer about 5500 miles of the 8,000, that included a lot of miles at elevations over 6,000ft and some up to 9,000 ft. Over the total trip, average mpg was 10.5. For the most part, I...
I’ve been looking at this a lot and the simple answer is, per your post, you can’t have both economy and performance with a tune. The tuner will sell you a specific tow tune, but you must use premium fuel to get the additional HP and torque - so economy is out. In addition, the performance gain...
You are correct, but the louvers in relation to engine operating temps only apply to radiators and not the IC. I wish I could have sub zero air intake temps all the time.
You're right - I might be over thinking this, but that's me...
I did unplug the louvers. I've had them unplugged for quite a few miles and will keep it unplugged as I see no benefit of the louvers. And around town, aerodynamics is a thing for me. FYI - no CEL either.
As stated, I am looking at...
First of all, thanks for the dyno chart. That's an impressive result. When I calculate your HP, I come up with approx 650 HP given your 618 ft lbs of torque at 5500 rpm. Nonetheless, a quick and relatively flat torque curve is far more important than HP.
I don't want to get a tune because...
Today I disconnected the IC louvers by simply unplugging the power source, and manually opened the louvers. I then drove the car to get the intake system heat soaked and did a short half bar boost run. Ambient air was 78 degrees. With the louvers basically locked open, you can see the the IAC2...
Well, kind of. But we are talking about work here, not keeping stoichiometric ratio. The engine will be producing more HP per unit, but it will have to work less to maintain ~2400 rpm. This means less fuel. Probably not much, but it will be less.
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