It is the the shifter lock. brake pedal is super sensitive. Its a metal latch and its metal to metal. the slightest touch or vibration will send signal to latch and unlatch repeatedly even without toughing the pedal. replacing the switch attached to the brake pedal arm. probably looks like...
I recently changed my oil filter adapter plate gasket. Not too bad, but you dump all your coolant. Part is only 15 bucks. It was a pretty decent leak. So time it with a coolant flush. Good time to inspect the bottom hoses as well.
It could be causing the noise but the noise is in the steering column. Just seems too loud and its quite annoying. I replaced the cruise control switch (sw5957) that releases the cruise control via brake yesterday while under there.
So I did a little more digging. The clicking is in the steering column and it is related to the brake pedal. I have a mess under there. (another thread perhaps). If i slightly touch the brake pedal and apply the slightest pressure I get the clicking. I noticed it in the steering column...
Sometimes it takes a while for a code to appear. about 50 miles. In the mean time the ECM will adjust air and fuel to try and compensate for the lean/rich condition until it gives up and throws a code.
I just climb on the engine. I have removed the hood as well with a bit of help. plenty of light and I can reach everything by hand. I have done full plugs and coils about 3 times.
I have random intermittent clicking under the dash. I only notice in in park while engine on right after start up or after parking. any ideas or experiences with it? Only thing I know that isnt working is Cruise control. but never dove into it to see the issue. I can do the diagnostic if...
is the heater valve vacuum operated? I know you said the HVAC system is auto, but if the valve is vacuum operated you may have a vac issue. Another thing could be the blend door motor.
I did add about 8 ounces on mine about a week before an oil change and did the intake spray before the throttle plate. There are some good before and after videos on the spray and oil additive. I also had a code that required a new EGR and DPFE. Unsure what part made the difference, but my...
Most companies will not ship to CA due to our CARB laws... even though they say carb compliant. I had them shipped to a friend and shipped to me. But I went with the straight and 45* and was able to drop the exhaust and weld them in. In order to be 100% legit, you need to drop about $4k on...
I would replace the compressor drier and expansion valve. You got your money worth on that compressor as they usually don't survive past 60k miles. To replaces the clutch, that compressor has to be removed anyways.
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