Changing out all coolant and heater hoses...

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Machete

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Adieu said:
Dealers and mechanics don't backflush when you order a "coolant flush"... that's why they only use a couple gallons of premix coolant
Click to expand...

My Dealer:
“A coolant flush is the process of draining the vehicle’s old coolant and running clean water through the system to clear it out. Removing dirt, rust, sludge and other sedament is an integral part of keeping your vehicle’s cooling system doing it’s job right.”

They replace all the old coolant.
 
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Machete

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From Dealer website.

“
we use a state of the art coolant exchange machine that properly exchanges all of the coolant in your vehicle. We use a flush chemical and completely replace all the old coolant with new coolant. After the flush is done we add a coolant conditioner that helps the coolant last as long as possible.”

a716aa9be6b1c33d39e6c0a47a5c04bdx.jpg
 
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Machete said:
From Dealer website.

“
we use a state of the art coolant exchange machine that properly exchanges all of the coolant in your vehicle. We use a flush chemical and completely replace all the old coolant with new coolant. After the flush is done we add a coolant conditioner that helps the coolant last as long as possible.”

a716aa9be6b1c33d39e6c0a47a5c04bdx.jpg
Click to expand...

That thing or similar, I've seen in action... only got 2.5 gallons out of a 3rd gen triton 5.4, temporarily resolved an overheat for a couple thousand miles but ultimately didn't do crap...

The way they attach it, doesn't seem to flush out heater cores and engine block, just the radiator and expansion tank maybe???
 
rjdelp7

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The 'lower hose' has an insane plastic lock ring at the radiator connection. Its a push and turn release. You must get the exact spot to release it. Watch some youtube vids on it. The heater core quick connects are hard also. You can't see them. The video on youtube shows how to do it. I drained my coolant. I filled, cycled and drained 3x's with distilled water. I drained that and topped off with straight green mix. I am pretty sure the dealer just drains and tops off. Getting rid of the old stuff, can be a pain. I seen many Expeditions in the U- pull it, junk yard with the original hoses. Some had 200K+ miles. The original ones are excellent quality. Mine are original, but I don't take it on long trips or tow.
 
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The 'lower hose' has an insane plastic lock ring at the radiator connection. Its a push and turn release. You must get the exact spot to release it... The heater core quick connects are hard also. You can't see them.
Click to expand...
I tried warning him. Poking a sleeping bear, I said.
 
1955moose

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An 18 year old bear. Their fatter, meaner, and don't like their routine changed.

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Idahokid

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I was able to get 2.5 gallons out of my coolant system by using the drain on the radiator and cleaning out the surge tank.I know it’s not perfect but I wanted to add new coolant with inhibitors for the protection. I’m happy with it.
 
ManUpOrShutUp

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rjdelp7 said:
I drained my coolant. I filled, cycled and drained 3x's with distilled water. I drained that and topped off with straight green mix.
Click to expand...

I did the same (but with orange) and then checked the mix with a refractometer. Next time I'll just take it somewhere with a vacuum filler.
 
ExplorerTom

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Don't get me started on replacement radiators......

I'm not surprised your hoses are still good. That stuff doesn't wear out like they used to. And that lower hose is a huge PITA.

Transmission cooler: go big or go home!
5D729D79-05D7-4EDD-9520-7B2C45CDE4AE.jpg
Transmission cooler meant for the 6.0l diesel using the 4r100 transmission. I have a part number around somewhere but I lost about 6 months worth of data that was supposed to be backed up to the "cloud", so it'll take some digging.

As far as monitoring transmission temps, the OBDII reader will read the temps in the valve body (lower left corner of the digital gauge) and now rarely gets over 150 with the huge cooler- it would get over 215 in the summer around town (not towing) with the factory auxiliary cooler. The Autometer gauge I have is reading the temp as it comes back into the transmission from that huge cooler (it rarely registers a temp- and if it does, it goes down once I get moving).
0EDD85CA-2F37-4AC6-A907-E3E99D02BE26.jpg

I would assume that you have 3.55 gears- based on that I have 3.55 gears and a 2000 EB 5.4 with the towing package (just like you). I think XLTs got the 3.73 as an option.

How's your battery?
 
ManUpOrShutUp

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ExplorerTom said:
Don't get me started on replacement radiators......

I'm not surprised your hoses are still good. That stuff doesn't wear out like they used to. And that lower hose is a huge PITA.

Transmission cooler: go big or go home!
Transmission cooler meant for the 6.0l diesel using the 4r100 transmission. I have a part number around somewhere but I lost about 6 months worth of data that was supposed to be backed up to the "cloud", so it'll take some digging.

As far as monitoring transmission temps, the OBDII reader will read the temps in the valve body (lower left corner of the digital gauge) and now rarely gets over 150 with the huge cooler- it would get over 215 in the summer around town (not towing) with the factory auxiliary cooler. The Autometer gauge I have is reading the temp as it comes back into the transmission from that huge cooler (it rarely registers a temp- and if it does, it goes down once I get moving).

I would assume that you have 3.55 gears- based on that I have 3.55 gears and a 2000 EB 5.4 with the towing package (just like you). I think XLTs got the 3.73 as an option.

How's your battery?
Click to expand...

Finally, someone besides me that has the UltraGauge. :D My temps are pretty decent with the upgraded OEM cooler. In the summer I usually top out around 183-184. Right now it's usually running around 135 because it's cold AF outside.
 
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