200,000 mile service

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JExpedition07

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I had already planned on plugs and coil packs. She's starting to develop the dreaded stutter. All the other items you list make sense. Wonder if I should flush/service the tranny too?

I left out trans fluid because that’s a question mark, depends on history. On some of those if the fluid hasn’t been changed the suspended particles are what keep them gripping. If you do change it don’t flush, do pan drop and filter swap only.
 
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johnboneske

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Is the assumption that the trans fluid was never changed until now? I didn't catch that from his post but could've overlooked it or maybe he posted that in another thread.


Yes, assuming it has never been changed, or if he got it after say 100k, and didn't do it then either.
 

TobyU

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I think Ford says at 200K to go buy a new one. LOL

You will be able to tell the trans fluid by looking at it.
Get a white paper towel and a white piece of laminated paper. I use the white information sticker under the hood and wipe the stick on it.
150K never been changed fluid will look it.
It will be dark and should have brown tones to it if not darker.
If it has been serviced it will be much lighter or at least deep red mahogany looking and smell better than brown burnt stuff.

I would never flush any trans. I refuse to give up pan drop and cleaning all the grit in bottom of pan and getting a new filter for the convenience of the shop doing the work?

I also never do flushes on high mile trans unless they have been serviced a lot and often.

I love the pre 03 ones with drain plug on converter.

So figure out trans then do as others said about maybe plugs or pull one to look at them if you don't know history.

You should check all to make sure they are tight. Plugs like to loosen up and blow out.
If you have all oem coils you really don't need to replace until one misfires.
If you have a shuddering, had to see if it's ignition miss or converter shudder.
Get a scan tool on it and read the cylinder misfire counts then clear codes and drive it a round then read them again.

If unknown history, unless plugs look relatively new, I would put new motorcraft platinum plugs and new rubber coil boots in.

Look for any badly deteriorating vacuum lines at pcv and change pcv and back of intake problem areas.

Change front and rear diff fluid and transfer case if no history of it being done.

Check spare tire for air and make sure mounting lowering works freely. Make sure it has a jack and tire tool and jack raising handle.

Clean throttle body inside and butterfly plate with rag or toothbrush and cleaner. Supposed to use special spray but ask me if I always do this and if any special coating has ever come off....
Clean MAF sensor wires with MAF spray. I use q-tips too but you're not supposed to. I'm such bad person. How do my cars ever get me anywhere???

New air filter K&N and cut out side of box if you want to try to increase mpg. It was noticeable in my 98 Durango 5.2. Never tried my wife's 2000 Exp- she pays for the gas in it.

Oil change, maybe high mileage Mobil 1 5w-30 or 10w-30, but I would pass on 5w-20.
Motorcraft oil filters best cost effectiveness at Walmart or better filter. But never orange Fram. I just use Motorcraft FL-820s. Don't need any better and price is great.


Keep and eye on radiator hoses for age, swelling, cracking.

See what coolant looks like. If not good....or if not green in my case I hate the extended crap and put green back in everything. You could dump from lower hose and refill, run and repeat a couple of times.
Thermostat if original is getting weak and by now and not giving hot heater and warming up as fast.
Pop the therm off at top hose and good time to flush water through. Then 50/50 with green coolant.
 

rjdelp7

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Basic maintenance, fix things when they go. An Expedition with this mileage will keep you busy, playing wack a mole. Don't stick too much money in it. The good for bad argument. You can do do all the maintenance and have the transmission go tomorrow. Check for body mount/ radiator support rust. The Expedition should go 300K.
 

CaptOchs

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I second the advice on the transmission flush. I did one on another vehicle at 100k and 12k later the transmission was shot. As for my Expedition I took it to a transmission shop at 100k and they dropped the pan, replaced the filter, and topped it off. Also had transfer case and differentials done at the same time. I'm at 158k now debating if I want to do it once more or just left it go. The lines are starting to get rusty so that could be a deciding factor.

The last transmission service I had on my Charger, I went with a custom blend from Quantum Blue lubricants. Ever since the switch the transmission shifts smoother. It's also supposed to be better for towing because the fluid won't break down if it gets too hot. My next tow vehicle will definitely get it.
 

Idahokid

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I’ve got 187000 on mine and just did the diffs.Made sure friction modifier was added and most of the hopping and jumping smoothed out.Changed some of the coolant.My manual mentioned looking at the front bearings and repacking and inspecting the 4x4 components.My Expedition was very well maintained up tp 135000 miles.Thats when I got it.I My try draining the transmission fluid next but it looks really good.
 

1955moose

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Don't mess with fluids. And I second no flushing. Just drain it, replace filter, get out as much as possible. Theirs videos here and online that will show how to drain through the tranny cooler.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk
 

JExpedition07

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Thought I’d add this, on 6R75&80 transmissions (2007+) ford specifically advises against flushing. The manual states the transmission can not be flushed as it has a thermostatic bypass valve and will not allow flush machines to swap the fluid. Ford also says flush machines use bulk fluid not specified for the trans. The official procedure is to drain (drop) pan, change filter, and refill. The pans on these trucks hold a lot (about 8 quarts) on the 6R at least. You are getting 70% fresh fluid. Flushing can loosen harmful deposits, you don’t want that.
 
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Idahokid

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I’m assuming the E4OD has a drain plug?I should probably look and answer my own question.
 
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