Dorzak
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Coming here can be like doing a survey of healthcare in a doctor’s waiting room. You are going to have a higher percentage of problems than the public at large.
Drivers turbo replacement...116,000 mile report.
- Thread starter Muddy Bean
- Start date
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Coming here can be like doing a survey of healthcare in a doctor’s waiting room. You are going to have a higher percentage of problems than the public at large.
I am a firm believer in whatever the manufacturer tells you for scheduled maintenance cut it in half don’t go over 5k miles per oil change (I don’t buy into the cost of synthetics unless required).
Oil, filters, plugs are cheap.
I swapped my plugs at 50k and it was most certainly time. They gaps were out pretty bad especially the front two cylinders. A slight miss was also remedied. Especially spark plugs I don’t like the idea of something so finely threaded running heat cycles for 100k miles, especially true with aluminum block. I’ll spend a few bucks a plug every 50k.
I’ll swap coils at 75k most likely even though they aren’t scheduled maintenance item. Been hearing good things about the Accel coils in the F150s.
Just something the dealer that I purchased from offers on most of their newer used vehicles. I figured it would be under the caveat that all service would need to be performed in their service department. Fortunately not oil has to be changed at 5k and scheduled maintenance must be performed at an ASE certified shop, though every 5 years an inspection must be done by the dealer where I purchased (no charge).
Kind of sucks as I enjoy doing my own work but my local dealer passes out 24.95 oil change/tire roatation coupons like candy and scheduled maintenance is pretty spread out on this trucks.
I do all my other repairs and my half maintenance schedule. Small price to pay to have the motor, tranny, and 4wd components covered for life unlimited mileage.
inmanlanier
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Has anyone read the coverage of the 'lifetime powertrain warranty' and what parts that covers? I think you'll be quite dismayed. Years ago all the US manufacturers significantly watered down their 'powertrain' definition. Scope of parts covered is disappointing IMHO.
Wondering if the turbos made any noise or perceived vibration prior to the failure?
I have a 2015 w 105K and occassional have a low rpm vibration which i feel is one of the turbos. Been running Lucas fuel additive as a cautionary move, and maybe this helps as seems to stay away, but still questioning and somewhat nervous.
I have a 2015 w 105K and occassional have a low rpm vibration which i feel is one of the turbos. Been running Lucas fuel additive as a cautionary move, and maybe this helps as seems to stay away, but still questioning and somewhat nervous.
Turbos are very particular when it comes to oil...I never go over 3K on changes - forget about the % reading. I let the engine reach operating temp before driving so the turbos get the proper oil viscosity and all engine components at the temp they like for clearances. When stopping you have to let the engine idle a few min to let the turbos spin down and cool. If you just shut off a turbo engine without doing that you will eventually ruin the bearings and seals as they will keep spinning without oil pressure from the engine to protect them.
I'll add my .02$.
My company buys only Ford 3.5L Eco F-150's. In the last few years we have had at least four bad throttle bodies, two trucks needed turbo replacements, and a few trucks have had bad coils. All of these issues have left our drivers stranded. All before 125,000 miles.
My truck has 112,000 miles with none of those issues. I however have drilled my CAC to vent, and had a catch can for ~80,000 miles. I just ordered new coils and plugs (changed plugs multiple times already) as a precaution. I'm thinking about keeping a spare throttle body in my truck just in case as well...
My company buys only Ford 3.5L Eco F-150's. In the last few years we have had at least four bad throttle bodies, two trucks needed turbo replacements, and a few trucks have had bad coils. All of these issues have left our drivers stranded. All before 125,000 miles.
My truck has 112,000 miles with none of those issues. I however have drilled my CAC to vent, and had a catch can for ~80,000 miles. I just ordered new coils and plugs (changed plugs multiple times already) as a precaution. I'm thinking about keeping a spare throttle body in my truck just in case as well...
99WhiteC5Coupe
Full Access Members
I have a 2015 Expedition Limited 4x4 - purchased new.
I live in the Midwest (cold winters...) and it takes about 10 minutes of driving at moderate speeds (30-50 mph) when the ambient temperature is 30 degrees F or lower, before the oil temperature gauge reading in the DIC changes from “low” to “normal”.
How long do remain stopped at idle, before driving, before your engine reaches operating temperature? Your listing shows you are in the Northeast - which is cold now. I could not imagine waiting 20-30 minutes at idle for the engine to reaches operating temperature.
Are you sure you do this all the time? How do you determine “normal operating temperature” of the engine? Do you use the vehicle’s DIC gauge?
I was unaware 15’ plus trucks had engine oil temperature. That’s nice bonus info to have.
On 07-14’ expys with the Triton V8 we have cylinder head temp sensors.
On 07-14’ expys with the Triton V8 we have cylinder head temp sensors.
You are correct it takes a long time...in the morning as soon as I jump out of the shower I remote start the '16 it runs 15-20 min. On my pickups I just run out start them and come back in. My wife remote starts her '04 Expy and lets it warm up. When she leaves work she remotes from her office. My son does the same as will my daughter when she old enough to drive.
Remember who says don't let them warm up for over 30 seconds, 5-10k oil changes, oil change %, etc...they want you to keep buying new vehicles, if they last then they don't sell new. If they don't break down what do the repair shops do? Think about that. I work heavy construction...we always warm up all engines before using the equipment.
The list of vehicles on my profile is not complete, however the ones listed are still "daily drivers" the 1989 is still going to the job sites like it always has. The heads were pulled at 180K just because of broken exhaust bolts. Zero gunk on anything and the machine shop thought there was only 60K on them. The cylinders still had the factory cross hatch visible and zero ring wear on them. The truck now has about 220K. The '95 F350 is the main snow plowing truck for our commercial accounts. So when it comes to maintenance or operation, no one can convince me otherwise. When I sold the '06 Expy even though they have a bad reputation on the 3 valve engine, a friend bought it for a fair price knowing how I take care of things.
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I never let my vehicles 'warm up'. I let it run, while I brush or scrape the windows. Most of the time, once the idle drops from high to low...I go. I wear a jacket, gloves and a hat. I take it easy until, I see the temp gauge move(about a mile/5 min). I have a neighbor, who remote starts his truck, year round. I hear it annoyingly, running constantly. He puts 'hours' of run time, without moving. He probably wastes $10-$20 a week in gas. What about wear and tear on the battery and starter? My father's Highlander shuts off and has to be 're-started', before you go. Carbon build up, from extended idling is bad also. Its only a matter of time, before the EPA goes after manufactures, for the pollution this must create. They put all this 'emission' stuff on cars, but enable it to idle for 20 mins, with no one in it.
